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The Fringe Taste Test: Garden of Unearthly Delights

There’s as much to taste at The Fringe as there is to see. In part one of this year’s taste test, our reviewers wandered the Garden of Unearthly Delights to see what’s worth sinking your teeth into.

Fringe-goer Lucy Bowden, centre, with performers Dr Ahmed Kazmi (from Cabaret Consultations) at the table and, from left, April Dawson and Kyle Raftery (Brass Monkeys), Richard Sullivan (Werk It) and Shona Conacher (Don’t Mess With the Dummies) at the Garden of Unearthly Delights. Picture: Matt Turner
Fringe-goer Lucy Bowden, centre, with performers Dr Ahmed Kazmi (from Cabaret Consultations) at the table and, from left, April Dawson and Kyle Raftery (Brass Monkeys), Richard Sullivan (Werk It) and Shona Conacher (Don’t Mess With the Dummies) at the Garden of Unearthly Delights. Picture: Matt Turner

There’s only one way to fuel up for the Fringe festival season, and that’s with food (and maybe an espresso martini).

With more than 50 food trucks and stalls spread across The Garden of Unearthly Delights, Gluttony and RCC, it’s no wonder a visit to the outdoor festival hubs has become an annual treat for show-goers and curious foodies alike.

New additions this year include up-market chicken shop JoyBird, Stepney cafe Fine & Fettle and award-winning Thai restaurant, Soi. 38. Hungry revellers can also get stuck into Pizzateca’s “Vera Pizza Oztalia”, mushroom specialists the FunGuys and sweets, from extravagant desserts of Shibui to Gelatissimo’s FruChoc gelato. Many vendors offer vegetarian and vegan foods, and gluten or dairy-free options.

“We’re always trying to source new and exciting vendors,” says Garden director, Michelle Buxton.

But how do they rate? Today, we put The Garden of Unearthly Delights to the test.

— Jessica Galletly

Motherlode Nuggeteria
Motherlode Nuggeteria

MOTHERLODE NUGGETERIA

Nuggets with fried onions, pickles and sweet & sour sauce $15

Nuggets tend to have a bad wrap (unless you’re hungover) but these fried nugs are the real deal.

Made using fresh chicken breast (not frozen), they’re succulent, tasty and occupy more than a single mouthful. There’s a variety of toppings on offer (parmesan, honey sriracha or satay) but the simple signature nuggets are king. Easy to scoff while you sprint between shows.

Something else: Fried cauliflower nugget sandwich, $15

****

THE FUNGUYS

Mushroom rice bowl $15

Mushroom specialists, the fun guys had free tastings of tempura mushrooms at their stall. Two dishes were on offer – the tempura mushroom and the mushroom rice bowl.

The Funguys.
The Funguys.

The bowl comes loaded with leafy greens, rice and a heap of tempura mushrooms. It was a healthy, filling and an absolutely delicious meal. For all mushroom lovers, this is the place to be!

Something else: Wash it down with iced tea, $4

*****

THE VEGGIE GALLEY

Savoury Seitan burger $15

Hungry? The gigantic Seitan burger boasts a wheat-based protein that’s made to taste like duck and a loading of salad and veg.

Veggie Galley Savoury Seitan Burger.
Veggie Galley Savoury Seitan Burger.

Their homemade hot sauce, available on the side was very high on heat but added another dimension.

A veggie paradise for unique burgers and salads that are guaranteed to fill your tummy.

Other options include tempeh, mushroom and haloumi.

Something else: Try their sweet potato fries with great toppings, $8

*****

Pigs on Fire.
Pigs on Fire.

PIGS ON FIRE

Meat special $25

Pigs on Fire is a Garden favourite – hence its annual return. The tasting plate, while erring on the expensive side of festival food, is worth the price tag if you are meat lover. With Dutch haggis, garlic bread, great kransky, pork belly and some of the best crackling you’ll find, the long line is justified – if you’ve got the time. The beetroot and pickled cabbage cuts through the salty meat and keeps the meat sweats at bay!

Something else: Hay-smoked pulled pork sourdough roll, $16

*****

Corn Star.
Corn Star.

CORN STAR

Hot grilled corn cob $7

Who doesn’t love a cob of buttery corn at a festival?

It’s a chance to relive your childhood but without the trip to your dentist that’ll come with a serve of fairy floss.

The corn was simple, nicely grilled, and seasoned well.

Something else: Try the chilli butter topping – it’s not too spicy.

****

ADELAIDE’S FAMOUS POFFERTJES

Adelaide's Famous Poffertjes
Adelaide's Famous Poffertjes

Banana caramel waffles $12

This tight-knit team has specialised in poffertjes (small, fluffy battered Dutch treats) since 1971.

They know their stuff.

The Garden regulars also have a fixed shop front in Mile End and the queue at this stall says it all.

The choice of toppings brings all the sweet tooths to the yard.

Made to order, melt in the mouth and more-ish. Beware of imitations.

Something else: Choose from cream, rum butter, lemon and cinnamon, mmmm.

****

CUBAN CANTINA

Cuban Cantina
Cuban Cantina

Mojo Smoky Pork Plate $15

This Cuban street food vendor promises the goods. “Voted No 1 at Falls Festival, Byron Bay” screams a hand-scrawled sign on the stall’s exterior. The burritos, loaded fries and nachos are popular but the Mojo Smoky Pork Plate falls a bit flat. The heaving tower of pork atop a bed of rice, salad and tangy yoghurt looks impressive, but lacks flavour. Stingy it ain’t … you certainly won’t walk away hungry.

Something else: Con carne nachos, $15.

***

GREEK PALACE

Lamb yiros, $16

Sitting cross-legged in the Garden, a yiros is easy to eat and satisfies.

It is handed over by warm, smiling staff members, with pita bread that’s on the thicker side, and comes with tender lamb, onion, lettuce, a tad floury tomato, tzatziki and tasty garlic sauce that all creates juices that’ll run down your arms.

Something else – Temple bowl salad, $15, with lamb or chicken, finished with tzatziki or hummus.

****

Bao Brothers.
Bao Brothers.

BAO BROTHERS

Three pork and vegie baos $21

Taiwan’s popular street food, the bao, is well-liked in Adelaide. Bao Brothers from Newcastle, not only brought their chicken, pork and tofu baos to the Fringe, but we were the first ones to try their new mushroom one. Their steamed buns are served warm with all the fillings in the right proportion. The new mushroom bao was excellent in taste with a traditional peanut praline topping and fresh coriander. It’d want to be good at this price – a little exxy $21.

Something else: Pimp it to taste with a variety of sauces available.

****

King Creole.
King Creole.

KING CREOLE

Southern fried chicken $15

Full marks for taste and texture, but $15 seems a little steep for three chicken tenders. Alas, they are big and very, very crunchy. The herb-spiked coating is deep golden and boasts all the gnarly, knobbly bits you want in fried food, with none of the grease. Perhaps a little more fresh coleslaw on the side would help complete the picture.

Something else: Go for the burger for the same price (fried tofu also available).

***1/2

LOS TACOS HERMANOS

Chicken nachos $16

Devouring the chicken nachos at Los Tacos Hermanos in the Garden felt like the closest thing I’ll get to eating traditional Mexican fare this summer. Fresh with a flavour hit thanks to the combination of marinated chicken, guacamole, pico de gallo and corn, with just enough sour cream to round out the offering. At that price, I’ll be heading back to the garden just to sit on the grass and indulge again.

Something else: The vegetarian nachos are an equally tasty option, same price.

****1/2

Beyond India.
Beyond India.

BEYOND INDIA

Aloo Tikki Chaat $7.50

Take two spicy fried potato patties, smash them and add a mouth-watering mix of chickpeas, onion and coriander, plus mint and tamarind chutney and some crunchy sev (chickpea noodles).

With ginger and turmeric, the tikkis (patties) will ruin you for every other potato cake. And the toppings finish them off perfectly. Spicy, sweet and tangy, it’s simply delicious and will leave you hankering for more. PS It’s also gluten and dairy free and vegetarian friendly.

Something else: Tandoori chicken, $10, which was so popular with punters it was walking, no, running out the door.

*****

Ozzie Gozleme.
Ozzie Gozleme.

OZZIE GOZLEME

Vegetarian Gozleme $16

My Ozzie Gozleme took a good 15 minutes of waiting time on a less busy Sunday afternoon, but was worth the wait. The hand-rolled Turkish pastry filled with vegies and cheese is delicious, especially when dunked in the accompanying chilli sauce and lime for zing. A good one for sharing.

Something else: Go for the lamb and veg combo for $2 extra.

***1/2

Francesco’s Osteria.
Francesco’s Osteria.

FRANCESCO’S OSTERIA

Mac and Cheese $14

Italian comfort food is aplenty here and if you are with family, then mac and cheese is the go-to. The creamy, filled-to-the-brim dish was enough for two children. It’s one of those things that puts a smile on the kids’ faces and buys the parents a lot of peace. It’s not only yummy, but offers plenty of cheese to satisfy all cravings.

Something else: The tasting platter gets you a lasagne of your choice, salad and potatoes, $20

****

Caro Club.
Caro Club.

CARO CLUB

HamburgueSA $17

Jerry Seinfeld once said, “There’s nothing finer than being in your diner”. This reviewer has the same sentiment about American diner, CAROclub. The Hamburguesa with extra bacon ($2) housed a chuck + rump patty, mex-ketchup, slaw, salsa, American melt cheese and jalapeños, with chips on the side. Delicious. Waiting time wasn’t too long and service friendly.

Something else: Chips. Do it. $7.

*****

GELATISSIMO

Gelatissimo.
Gelatissimo.

Fruchoc, single scoop $6

The idea of a Fruchoc flavoured gelato was both exciting and bizarre.

But the exclusive flavour from Gelatissimo, just for the Fringe, was a treat.

It was a subtle chocolate flavour, with bits of sour and sweet Fruchoc centre mixed in.

The “Fringe tax” was evident in the price hype per scoop, and the cup size gelato was not very generous.

Something else: The lemon is refreshing – perfect for a warm day in the Garden.

***

ITALIAN KITCHEN

Italian Kitchen.
Italian Kitchen.

Cheese-wheel gnocchi $16

With the latest Italian restaurant craze for pastas mixed through giant parmesan-style cheese wheels, the cheese wheel gnocchi was a must-try.

The handmade gnocchi was mixed with crème fraiche and chives, and tossed through a 40kg Grand Padano wheel, making it a cheesy, salty pasta combination with onion flavours throughout – the perfect hangover cure.

The handmade gnocchi was a bit tough, particularly if you don’t eat it immediately.

Something else: Bolognese loaded fries, $16.

***

PAN & VINE

Pan and Vine.
Pan and Vine.

Pepperoni Pizza $16

A crowd favourite for a well-deserved reason, Pan & Vine’s pepperoni pizza is a classic that doesn’t disappoint.

Comprising a nicely oven baked base, fluffy crust and generous amount of sauce and topping, it will make a great pre-or-post show meal that won’t hurt the hip pocket.

Wait time at 7pm was around 20 minutes, which was reasonable for how busy the stall was.

Something else: Vegan and gluten-free options are available.

****

PIZZA AT THE GARDEN

New Yorker $16

Next to Mr Doughnuts is the mundanely named Pizza at the Garden. But that’s where mundane ends. In truth, this pizza stall is the work of the highly regarded Amigo’s Pizza in Magill – and it’s a winner. At first glance their 9-inch New Yorker looks like it might not be a belly-filler, but plentiful toppings make this more than a meal for one.

Team it with a serve of hot garlic bread if you’re famished.

Something else: Vegetarian options include a truffle mushroom number – yum.

****

What's on at Adelaide Fringe 2020

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