Victorian country pubs find new life beyond beer and pokies
A wave of innovation is sweeping through Victoria's abandoned country pubs as creative business owners transform these cherished landmarks into thriving modern venues.
For 180 years, the ornate balconies of Victoria’s country pubs have witnessed the ebb and flow of rural fortunes.
But in recent decades, evolving social patterns, shrinking clientele and harsh economic realities have forced many to close - their shuttered windows casting shadows over once-vibrant main streets.
Now, from Bairnsdale in the east to Digby in the west, a wave of innovation is unfolding as these grand old treasures are transformed from decaying landmarks into gourmet foodie destinations, boutique accommodation, co-working spaces and even a florist - proving that while some publicans may have called last drinks, these buildings’ stories are far from over.
Whether ‘pubs with no beer’ or expanded locals, these renovations are revitalising town centres.
MILLION DOLLAR MAKEOVER
The historic Commercial Hotel in Bairnsdale has been reborn as a slice of Vietnam now offering pho rather than pints, under its new identity as Maison Sen’s.
An ambitious $1m renovation brought new flavours to one of the town’s most recognisable heritage buildings when owners Tracey Nguyen and Ha Hoang relocated from Melbourne in January.
“It’s a heritage building in a very good location in the middle of town,” general manager Tom Le said.
“The building lives in many people’s memories and locals have been very supportive since opening.”
The two-year project saw costs double initial estimates.
Custom fittings and authentic materials were sourced from Vietnam, combined with local craftsmanship to preserve the building’s character.
Head chef Ha Hoang created an extensive menu offering authentic Vietnamese cuisine previously unavailable in Bairnsdale.
The restaurant operates three distinct spaces: general dining with a fireplace, an imperial ‘palace’ room with king and queen chairs, and a relaxed coffee zone.
Challenges include sourcing specialty ingredients, requiring twice-weekly Melbourne trips, and restrictive one-hour parking.
Future plans comprise accommodation and a 7am coffee service.
“It feels good to revive a heritage building while attracting more people to the area,” Tom said.
“Our staff and customers love seeing the building used again - it keeps memories alive while creating something new.”
BLOOMS BEAT BEER
Just blocks away, Bairnsdale’s oldest pub, the Main Hotel, has begun its next chapter as a cafe, florist and giftware shop under local businesswoman Jacqui Banson.
After three decades operating Jacqui’s Catering, Jacqui purchased the landmark building in March 2025, opening in April after her lease expired and options were limited.
“The previous owners completed great renovations so we’re just altering it to suit our cafe needs,” she said.
The former bar became cafe space while the original bistro now houses fresh flowers alongside homewares and gifts - a fragrant contrast to its beer-soaked past.
Standing behind the polished wooden bar that once served schooners, Jacqui now arranges bruschetta and bouquets instead.
Future plans include converting the bottleshop into a drive-through coffee stop, creating a dedicated children’s zone and potentially adding accommodation upstairs.
“This old pub has had a difficult history - no one has been able to make a go of it, especially without pokies,” Jacqui said.
“I hope we can bring back some life to the old building.”
BEDS OVER BEER
In remote locations, the challenges differ but the innovative spirit remains.
When Neil Maric purchased the historic Torrumbarry Hotel near Echuca four years ago, he didn’t plan for it to become accommodation-only but economic realities forced a creative solution.
“When they can’t sell enough steaks or beer, something has to happen,” Neil said.
After extensive renovations to the rundown property, Neil repurposed it as affordable accommodation on booking.com and Airbnb.
“The accommodation is bringing more people into Torrumbarry than the pub was - they’re buying food and fuel, bringing more money into the township,” he said.
While locals now travel to Echuca or Kerang for beer, Melbourne visitors fill the renovated rooms during busy periods.
“We’ve found a formula that works so not all is lost,” Neil said.
COMMUNITY HEART RETURNS
In the tiny crossroads town of Digby, population 122, Karin and Gordon Cleaver saw opportunity where others saw only a run-down pub that was rarely open.
“As soon as I walked in the door I knew this was the place,” Karin said.
Relocating from Mt Egerton, the couple purchased the former Digby Hotel on April Fool’s Day 2021, right in the middle of Covid lockdowns.
The property was in dire condition but the Cleavers renovated and transformed it into a combination pub, general store, cafe and post office - where locals can still share a beer while collecting their mail.
During their first busy Friday night, Gordon witnessed something special - locals gathering who “hadn’t got together for a long, long time.”
“It makes me emotional and nostalgic - to think they hadn’t been together for so long and there they were all together at the local like they should be,” Karin said.
“A lot of towns are dying because their pubs are closed and they haven’t got that place to come together.”
Karin’s observation rings true across regional Victoria.
The reimagining of iconic country pubs is doing more than preserving historic buildings - it’s saving the heart of small communities.
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