6 classic Greek food recipes from different parts of the country
They say that grandmas know best and in this case they’re right. Six Greek yiayias have shared traditional recipes from their different home towns.
When it comes to cooking, yiayia (grandma in Greek) always knows best.
And when it comes to healthy and tasty food, Mediterranean dishes get top marks for flavour and creativity.
In her new cookbook, Anastasia Miari shares the time-honoured recipes and fascinating life stories of some of Greece’s matriarchs.
Yiayia Lily’s xtapodomakaronada (octopus pasta) from Corfu
“Lily isn’t your typical yiayia in that she isn’t Greek, but she can knock up a better spicy makaronada than most of the yiayiades on the island,” Miari says.
“That’s because she’s married to Kyrios Bellos, owner of my favourite establishment in Corfu, Klimataria, and an arbiter of taste when it comes to traditional Corfiot dishes like this one.
“This octopus pasta is both a signature of the island and of Klimataria. The octopus cooks in a rich sauce of olive oil, spicy pepper and tomato and is served with spaghetti.
“Both the pasta and the addition of spices nod to the Italian influence on Corfu, the conquering Venetians bringing spice to the island from their expeditions further east.”
Yiayia Olga’s melomakarona (honey biscuits) from Thessaly
“Soft, oval, almost cakey biscuits dipped in honey syrup and topped with a sprinkling of crunchy walnuts, melomakarona are the ultimate Christmas sweet in Greece,” Miari says.
“They’re found in bakeries from Corfu to Kastellorizo, but because raw Thessalian honey is some of the nation’s best produce, baking them here with Olga in the company of many of the region’s beekeepers is a real treat.”
Yiayia Niki’s bakaliaros plaki (baked cod) from Kalamata
“We eat Niki’s flavour-rich dish in the dappled shade of her balcony, overlooking inky-blue water in the distance,” Miari says.
“The currants perfectly balance the salted cod, but if you’re not a fan of salt cod, I’ve also made this recipe with cod fillets and added salt myself. I’ve also made this into a plentiful vegan dish by omitting the fish and adding an extra potato and red capsicum.”
Yiayia Margarita’s skordomakarona (garlic and tomato bucatini) from Santorini
“Dogs, cats, horses and chickens watch on as Margarita serves a punchy pasta in the garden of her secluded house on the southern coast of Santorini,” Miari says.
“Skordomakarona brings together bucatini pasta, tomatoes that taste like sunshine and salty capers in one plate – a Santorini signature best enjoyed when the sun is out. An entire bulb of garlic goes into this, and I wouldn’t skimp on it.”
Yiayia Feyrouz’s Levantine tabbouleh from Tokali, Turkiye
“On a bright weekday afternoon in Athens, I manage to grab Feyrouz at her eponymous downtown eatery to ask if she might be up for cooking together for the book,” Miari says.
“Together we make a tabbouleh like no other I’ve ever had in my life, perhaps owing to the incredible combination of spices.”
Yiayia Evangelia’s tomatokeftedes (tomato fritters) from Santorini
“I’m cooking with Yiayia Evangelia in Santorini. We’re making tomatokeftedes using Santorini’s top produce: the tomato. The volcanic soil makes Santorini the perfect tomato-growing spot. Every one of the tomatoes I sneak into my mouth is a juicy, sweet burst of delight. When you’re shopping for produce for this dish, ensure you sample the tomatoes and choose ones in season, with plenty of flavour.”
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Originally published as 6 classic Greek food recipes from different parts of the country