There is no greater airport to eat in than this one

The airport

Leonardo da Vinci International Airport, Rome (FCO)

An efficient airport experience without sacrificing architectural splendour.Credit: iStock

The flight

Swiss Air LX1727 from Rome to Zurich.

The arrival

I take the 32-minute morning Leonardo Express train from Rome’s main station, Roma Termini, to Leonardo da Vinci International Airport, also known as Roma Fiumicino. It’s a few minutes’ walk from the dated-looking train station to Terminal 1, where domestic and Schengen-area flights depart, but Terminal 1 is spacious and buzzing. The airport is heaving with passengers during peak holiday season, but seems to handle the crowds well.

Inside the Leonardo Express.Credit: iStock

The look

After an €800 million ($1.3 billion) upgrade in late 2021 that saw T2 absorbed during T1’s expansion, FCO’s T1 and T3 deliver an efficient airport experience without sacrificing architectural splendour. The three-storey, 37,000-square-metre terminal is flush with natural light and appealing curves, filled with luxury Italian boutiques, dotted with archaeological artefacts and crammed with delicious food options. In 2023, it was given a Skytrax five-star rating, as well as being named the best airport in Europe seven years running by Airports Council International.

While the ancient Roman statues are a wonderful point of difference, somehow it’s the toilets that end up coming back into conversation with colleagues who have transited there: clean, hygienic and potentially the first airport toilet in the history of mankind with the requisite number of functional hooks on the stall door.

Check-in

There’s no queue at the bag drop for my Swiss Air flight, so I head straight to security. In May, the airport opened a new “Airport in the City” check-in desk at Roma Termini Train Station, where you can check in and drop your bags for your flight at least 3½ hours before departure. Handy if you have an early morning check-out and an evening flight, but given how often airlines lose bags, I’m not sure I’m willing to gamble on my luggage making it to the other end.

Security

Security is quick and seamless. There is a dedicated family gate and gate for those with mobility needs and hidden disabilities: both are positioned with the best direct access to the inevitable duty-free gauntlet of Limoncello, Ferrero Rocher chocolate and designer perfumes on the other side.

Food+drink

There can be no greater airport to eat in the world than one in Italy. From panini shops to coffee bars serving espresso and restaurants serving steaming plates of fresh pasta, this is my last taste of Italy, and even though it’s breakfast time, I try to eat and drink my weight in Italian food before boarding. I manage three espressos, a panini from Eataly and dolce to go, before settling into three scoops of gelato from famous Turin chocolatier and gelato maker Venchi.

Bring an appetite.Credit: iStock

Retail therapy

The airport features the standard run of designer boutiques, with a heavy lean towards Italian designers such as Bulgari, Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta and Gucci in Terminal 1 (the airport even has a personal shopping service for those needing help with spending thousands of euros). However, it’s food that fills the empty space in both my heart and carry-on, and I load up on packaged food items from cult food chain Eataly, trying to keep one eye on the weight and space in my bag, and the other on what Australian customs will allow me to bring back once my trip is over.

Passing time

The airport does offer a few novelties besides shopping, eating and Roman ruins. Grand pianos are located throughout, with one passenger playing for 20 minutes straight while I knock off a second round of gelato. He receives a standing ovation when he makes a dash to his flight.

The verdict

FCO delivers one of the most enjoyable airport experiences ever. Bring an appetite.

Our rating out of five

★★★★★

The writer travelled as a guest of Swiss Tourism