This retreat once banned booze but now mixes wellness with indulgence

“Feelin’ hot, hot, hot!” I’m only into my second round of five cold plunges in the new cold-water therapy bath at Elysia Wellness Retreat, a 74-room resort and spa set among the rolling hills of the Hunter Valley hinterland.

My husband, torso seared a rosy pink from the cold, is leaning over me in wet swimming trunks, singing the 1980s tune – an attempt, perhaps, to conjure the hot Caribbean nights of the classic Arrow hit, as I labour to steady my breath in a frigid six-degree bath.

He seems irritatingly energised, probably riding that post-plunge “natural high” I hear so much about.

Elysia’s new ice bath, launched in January 2024.

Among the many touted benefits of an icy soak is reduced inflammation, increased metabolism, improved sleep and mood. I don’t know much about all that but it’s certainly helping to zap away the brain fog brought on by last night’s semillon.

Formerly the iconic Golden Door Health Retreat Elysia, the sprawling vineyard and bush-ringed property was acquired by Minor Hotels group in 2019, who also own the neighbouring Oaks Cypress Lakes golf resort. It relaunched as Elysia Wellness Retreat and underwent a staggered refurbishment over several years, which included upgrades to 23 of the 74 villas.

Elysia’s Escape Suites.

In 2022 Elysia also introduced one and two-bedroom Escape Suites, a more flexible and economical option for guests who want to dip a toe in wellness without committing to the all-inclusive shebang of seminars, treatments, speakers and nutritionist-designed meals.

There are many ways to fill one’s cup, and this style of retreat – which tempers wellness with unrestricted indulgence – suits us just fine. An ice bath and sauna session to play at being virtuous, between rounds of golf and visits to local restaurants and cellar doors? Oh, yes.

En suite … fancy a soak?

In a former life, Elysia banned alcohol and caffeine. Now, our roomy one-bedroom suite includes its own Nespresso coffee machine, and mod cons like Wi-Fi, streaming-ready TVs, a balcony, a tub, and a full kitchenette (though for reasons unclear, the oven is labelled “Display only”).

The retreat’s newest toy, a beautiful cedar and steel-wrapped, temperature-controlled cold-water therapy bath next to the spa centre’s heated pool, is available for all guests to use, though staff recommend a cold water therapy group class ($25) for a foundation in breath work and cold-water immersion.

Elysia’s spa features both an outdoor and indoor heated pool.

My first plunge is only two minutes, but the shock of the icy water triggers a sudden, involuntary gasping fit, a not uncommon response. The self-guided program recommends four-second-long breaths and exhales interspersed with four-second holds. I try it; it has a meditative effect.

The breath work and diaphragmatic breathing taught in guided sessions – rapid pants followed by controlled breath holds – controls the gasp reflex by blowing off carbon dioxide and flushing your body with oxygen.

Alas, I make do with my husband’s “hot, hot, hot” chants and grit through the stinging pain in my toes.

A morning yoga session on Meditation Hill.

Perhaps it’s the power of suggestion, but when we finally complete all five plunges, the feel-good chemicals are rippling through us.

Defrosting is far more pleasurable – an onsite sauna and spa does the heavy lifting, followed by hot tea in the adjoining relaxation lounge.

Bush indulgence … mountain views from Elysia Wellness Retreat.

Elsewhere, facilities including a gym, tennis courts, walking tracks and an outdoor yoga platform on a peaceful, brush-covered hillside – frequented by local kangaroos – offer alternative ways to warm up. Though a Hunter Valley cab sav could be just as effective – a theory we’re willing to test.

We take Elysia’s free shuttle to Oaks Cypress Lakes, where signature restaurant Oak and Vine runs wine-match dinners Thursday to Saturday, with modern riffs on Sri Lankan fare alongside local drops.

Lake views from upmarket Oak and Vine.

Head chef Vinura “Vinnie” de Silva prepares the house spice blends from scratch – an outrageously flavoursome black-pepper pork dry curry packs in 20 spices alone, while dishes like tea-smoked duck and sweet tamarind-doused sous-vide lamb rack on a bed of tangy eggplant moju combine de Silva’s fine-dining training with the comfort food of his Sri Lankan youth.

Elysia guests can also make use of Oaks facilities, many at no extra cost. The next day, we shuttle to Cypress Lakes for buffet breakfast and a private golf lesson at the championship course, only for a sudden downpour to foil half of our plans.

Oak and Vine Cypress Lakes’ Sri Lankan menu reinvents the comfort favourites of Vinura de Silva’s youth.

Fortunately, there’s no gap a bit of spa indulgence can’t plug. Back at Elysia, 80 minutes go by too quickly in a heavenly Arabian Oud massage and facial treatment.

What follows is as good as any ice bath-induced natural high. We depart with a full cup and a suitcase bulging with Hunter wine. That’s my kind of wellness weekend.

The details

Stay

Elysia Wellness Retreat’s Escape Suites start from $291 a night, with inclusive and tailored retreat packages from $1314 a person for minimum two-night stays. See elysiaretreat.com.au

Eat

Oak and Vine Cypress Lakes offers Sri Lankan inspired two and three-course menus ($79/$95), Thursday to Saturday from 6pm. See oakshotels.com/en

Do

Elysia runs Introduction to Cold-Water Therapy group sessions each Monday, 4pm for retreat program guests. Escape Suites guests can purchase one-on-one sessions Sunday to Thursday ($150), or self-guided sessions at any time ($25).

The writer stayed as a guest of Elysia Wellness Retreat and Oaks Hotels, Resorts and Suites.