Port guide: Porto, Portugal

Portugal’s second-largest city, once known only for commerce, has acquired new-found fun in lively arts and nightlife scenes, and has a gloriously scenic setting.

Who goes there

Porto is one of those rare ports visited by both ocean and river ships. Ocean ships are usually on western Europe cruises as they relocate from northern Europe to the Mediterranean during shoulder season. River ships sail the increasingly popular Douro River, where more than 20 companies operate, including AmaWaterways, APT, CroisiEurope, Emerald, Riviera, Scenic, Travelmarvel, Uniworld and Viking.

Scenic Azure and the Dom Luís Bridge, Porto.

Sail on in

Not much excitement from the ocean, so enjoy your lie-in. From the river? Fabulous. The valley is narrow and steep, and on either side rises an eclectic collection of buildings old and new. The Porto (south) side is best: a cascade of pink mansions, yellow houses, churches and vertical streets that seem about to slide into the water.

Berth rites

Ocean-cruise ships dock at Leixoes, eight kilometres from Porto. The small four-storey terminal with its helical ramp doesn’t offer much but is a stunning piece of architecture that looks like a giant swirl of white ribbon. River ships dock at Vila Nova da Gaia, right across the river from Porto. You can walk to the foot of the old town in about 20 minutes, with lots of uphill work thereafter.

Before and after

No ocean cruises begin or end in Porto, but if you’re river cruising you should stay a night or two. Porto has an excellent range of hotels, from legendary Hospes Infante Sagres to comfortable chains such as Mercure, Sheraton and InterContinental. Suave, contemporary The Yateman Hotel, which is Relais and Chateaux accredited, has designer chic, wine-themed decor and a great restaurant.

Portugal’s Douro River.

Going ashore

The World Heritage old town is a renovation work in progress, still shabby in parts, but always a wonderful jumble of pastel-painted houses and plunging river views. It isn’t about big sights but agreeable wandering, during which you’ll discover baroque churches, a train station emblazoned with glorious blue tile work, sunlit squares, street markets and fashion boutiques. If you want one must-do, make it Serralves Foundation for contemporary art and delightful gardens.

Don’t miss

Vila Nova de Gaia where river ships tie up, in order to investigate the venerable port wine houses. Famous producers include Ferreira, Croft, Sandeman and Taylors. (Many were founded centuries ago by British traders, which explains the names.) Port tastings will familiarise you with vintage, ruby and tawny varieties, and how this once old-fashioned wine has been modernised for a more youthful market.

Get active

Porto’s steep setting gives legs and lungs a workout. A cycle path takes you along the river towards the Atlantic Ocean; if you intend cycling anywhere else, an e-bike to assist with the terrain might be advisable. You can rent paddleboards and kayaks on the river.

Best bites

Stews, dried cod, seafood and petiscos (tapas) are Porto specialties. If you’re after coffee and pastries, head to Majestic Cafe for Belle Epoque glamour and almond tarts. The city has a thriving contemporary dining scene, no better showcased than at Antiqvvm, which has two Michelin stars, and serves dishes such as chicken with chestnuts and Alentejo ham, and smoked salmon with apple and beetroot foam, from inventive chef Vitor Matos.

Further afield

Northern Portugal beyond the Douro is somewhat overlooked, so by all means take the chance to see more on a shore excursion. The two big destinations are Portugal’s old capital Guimaraes, which has a World Heritage medieval centre and buzzing, arty and student atmosphere, and Braga, a baroque contrast crammed with opulent monuments – and not a few boutiques and bars.