I stayed in Rome’s poshest area and it was surprisingly cheap

I didn’t intend to stay in the preferred address of Rome’s upper-crust. My budget was modest. So, when I booked a hotel in Prati, I did so purely based on its proximity to Vatican City and its no-frills price tag.

But while wandering the neighbourhood on a Saturday morning, I realise I have made a mistake. The elegant boulevards, the high-end European fashion houses lining the streets and the general air of affluence are undeniable. I’m in Rome’s gilded cage, surrounded by meticulously restored art nouveau buildings, which feel a touch more French than Roman, and well-dressed residents.

Prati’s proximity to the Vatican attracted the city’s elite.Credit: Getty Images

The grand shopping boulevard – Via Cola di Rienzo – forms the neighbourhood’s spine, bookended by two piazzas. Think of it as Rome’s answer to Fifth Avenue. Designer labels occupy every second store, with historic cafes and gourmet emporiums such as Castroni – rumoured to have one of the city’s finest coffee selections – dropped in between to break up the shopping.

Despite Prati’s upscale exterior, beyond the main drag among a maze of tree-lined streets, the neighbourhood’s true character emerges. Traditional delis, their windows embellished with cured meats, share the streetscape with trendy wine bars and vegan burger joints. Greek tavernas sit beside modern Japanese restaurants and across the road from French bakeries, including Le Carre Francais, a local favourite for a morning croissant.

A peek into Antica Manifattura Cappelli reveals a world of handcrafted headwear by milliner Patrizia Fabri, whose clients include Lady Gaga and Givenchy. Her narrow shop is brimming with fascinators, cloches and styles you’ve probably never seen before.

Via Cola di Rienzo, Rome’s boutique-lined shopping boulevard.Credit: Getty Images

Nearby, Brugnoli is a gentleman’s corner, established in the late 1960s. Today, it’s manned by a young entrepreneur who curates rare vintage pieces and handmade Italian shoes. The atmosphere is a blend of nostalgic allure and contemporary cool. In the morning, espresso is squeezed out of a stylish coffee machine, and in the early afternoon, classic cocktails are served and consumed while perusing the items.

Meandering through the shaded streets, passing endless Brugnoli-style boutiques, I appreciate Prati for what it is – Rome’s sophisticated sibling who’s secretly down-to-earth. Yet, the looming Vatican walls and its accompanying crowds serve as a constant reminder of its past.

Once an open field on the River Tiber’s west bank, Prati, meaning “meadow” in Italian, emerged as a residential district in the late 19th century. Its proximity to the Vatican attracted the city’s elite, from clergy to diplomats, but today there’s a mix of professionals and long-time residents.

No touristy checkered tablecloths in sight: Sant’Isidoro Pizza and Bolle.Credit:

For visitors like me, it’s a sweet spot – close enough to Rome’s major attractions yet removed from the tourist frenzy. From the east, the Spanish Steps are a leisurely 15-minute stroll away, with the Trevi Fountain just five minutes further. Then, of course, there’s the walkability to Vatican City and St Peter’s Basilica on its doorstep. Despite its convenience, Prati feels devoid of tourists.

In the afternoon, locals pile into noisy bars for aperitivi. Three hours later, they shuffle into trattorias and pizzerias for dinner. I walk into Sant’Isidoro Pizza and Bolle, a contemporary pizzeria that ditches the traditional checkered tablecloths and clutter for sleek, exposed concrete and industrial lighting. That said, the pizza flying out of the woodfired oven is rooted in family tradition. My margherita pizza has a thin base with a chewy, bubbly crust and a rich red sauce. I walk away with a €14 ($23) bill in one of Rome’s wealthiest neighbourhoods.

The wildly popular Gelateria dei Gracchi.Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

At 9pm, the sun’s glow lingers in a palette of peaches and cream over the city. On my walk home, I grab a scoop of pistachio gelato from the legendary Gelateria dei Gracchi. As expected, a line of eager gelato enthusiasts snakes outside the iconic shop. Its tiny interior limits the number of customers inside, adding to the anticipation.

Prati is more than just a playground for Rome’s well-off residents. It’s got heart, soul, and surprisingly good prices. And for modest travellers like me, it’s a total score.

The details

Fly
Qantas operates flights from Sydney to Rome, with a connection via London. See qantas.com.au

Stay
Residenza Cavallini is a three-star hotel with reasonable room sizes and wonderful views from the communal terrace. Double rooms from $168 a night. See residenzacavallini.com.

For a luxury option, Le Meridien Visconti Rome is perched on the river bank and offers superior guest rooms from $680 a night. See marriott.com

Eat
Sant’Isidoro Pizza and Bolle takes reservations. See pizzabolle.it

Gelateria dei Gracchi is open every day from 11.30am to 12am. See gelateriadeigracchi.it

Shop
Most shops in Prati don’t open until about 10am and are usually closed on Sundays.

The writer travelled at her own expense.