Forget ‘World’s 50 Best’. Here are my (realistic) 50 greatest restaurants

It’s a jarring moment, going from the dorm of a youth hostel to the dining room of a three-Michelin-starred restaurant. But you do that when you’re staying in San Sebastian and pouring all your money into one incredible dining experience.

I was 25 when the world of food changed for me. Eating had always been enjoyable, but I had never planned an entire holiday around one meal.

Matria in Peru is a top-notch restaurant that’s actually easy to get a table at.

But there I was in the north of Spain, scrimping on accommodation in a hostel so I could have dinner at Restaurante Arzak, holder of three Michelin stars, one of the global pioneers of molecular gastronomy and a crucial driver of San Sebastian as a food destination.

That meal was mind-blowing – like nothing I had ever experienced. And it changed the way I would travel forever. Even some 20 years later, food is no side-show.

I’m not alone in this transformation – so many Australians now travel with dining in mind. Food, after all, is culture and dining is a window into a nation’s history, traditions, passions and desires.

Restaurants show you everything about the world while also providing the intensely enjoyable experience of eating good food. And so we come to my list of the world’s 50 not-necessarily-best-but-still-really-great restaurants.

If you’re into food you’ll probably be aware that the real World’s 50 best restaurants list was recently announced in Las Vegas, with Spain’s Disfrutar at No.1. That list forms the inspiration for this list, though mine is different.

This is not an attempt to definitively number the best restaurants in the world. Instead, this is 50 of the greatest dining experiences I have had around the world, those I recommend to friends or colleagues, and venues I would book again and again.

Some are expensive, some cheap; some formal, some relaxed – but all are representative of the place in which they are located and can easily be booked if you’re visiting on a holiday. These aren’t impossible restaurants, or dream restaurants. They’re there for you to visit and maybe change the way you travel forever.

Andres Carne de Res, Bogota, Colombia

There’s plenty going on in the Bogota food scene right now, with multiple venues on the extended World’s 100 Best restaurants list. And while Andres Carne de Res isn’t likely to appear, given its whopping size and relatively basic food, this restaurant is a whole lot of fun, with live bands, dancefloors and even a rock-climbing wall. See andrescarnederes.com

Astols Rokeri, Gothenburg, Sweden

Not fancy, but gorgeous: Astols Rokeri.

Scandinavia is another region making a splash on the international fine-dining scene. My pick here isn’t fancy, but it is gorgeous: Astols Rokeri, a smokehouse on the island of Astol, just off Gothenburg in Sweden. Take a seat in the sun, order some smoked fish and a beer, and enjoy. (If you don’t want to travel so far, there’s also an outlet in the Gothenburg fish market.) See astolsrokeri.se

Asador Nicolas, Tolosa, Spain

Just how good can a steak taste? Visit Asador Nicolas and you will know. This historic steakhouse, on the banks of the Oria River in northern Spain, sources the finest beef around, a selection that changes daily, and third-generation asador Xabi Ruiz cooks it over charcoal with subtle skill and absolute dedication. The result: steak heaven. See asadornicolas.com

Berghaus Alpiglen, Grindelwald, Switzerland

Berghaus Alpiglen is best visited in winter.

High in the mountains of Switzerland, on a hillside overlooking the village of Grindelwald, sits Berghaus Alpiglen, the ideal of a Swiss farmhouse restaurant. Visit in winter, when you can dine on fondue and schnapps before rugging up and heading outside to toboggan on the nearby snow-covered track. See alpiglen.ch

Bistrot Paul Bert, Paris, France

Everyone goes to France hoping to discover a restaurant like Bistrot Paul Bert. The menu here is classic – pepper steak with fries, steak tartare, souffle, seared foie gras – and the execution is flawless, the finest ingredients treated with skill and care. The atmosphere, too, is classic and the service swift. See bistrotpaulbert.fr

Butagumi, Tokyo, Japan

Japanese cooks excel in simplicity, taking a few ingredients and coaxing incredible flavours and textures from them. Case in point: tonkatsu, a fillet of pork that is breaded and deep-fried until crunchy, succulent and sweet. Of the many high-end tonkatsu joints in Tokyo, my pick is Butagumi, set in an old house in Nishi-Azabu. No website.

Cail Bruich, Glasgow

Scottish food isn’t all haggis, neeps and tats (though it definitely is haggis, neeps and tats). At Glasgow’s Michelin-starred fine diner Cail Bruich, chef Lorna McNee sources the finest produce from around Scotland – Orkney scallops, west coast crab, Peterhead cod – and presents it simply but beautifully. See cailbruich.co.uk

Cal Ganxo, Masmolets, Spain

This might just be the most enjoyable dining experience on the planet: a calcotada, a meal dedicated to the consumption of long onions called calcots, which are roasted over open flames and served with nutty salbitxada sauce. At Cal Ganxo, outside Barcelona, hordes of Catalans gather from November to April, the only months it is open, to eat, drink and be merry. See calganxo.com

Da Cesare, Rome, Italy

Da Cesare is the trattoria you’re hoping to find in Italy.

In the same way as Bistrot Paul Bert is the restaurant everyone is looking to discover in France, Da Cesare is the trattoria you’re hoping to find in Italy. Set in the suburbs of Rome, Da Cesare serves all the local classics, and it does them so well. Coupled with a great wine list and a local crowd, it doesn’t get much better. See trattoriadacesare.it

Franceschetta 58, Modena, Italy

The cooking is astounding at Franceschetta 58 in Modena, Italy.

Your chances of scoring a booking at Osteria Francescana, former No.1 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, are slim to niente. Your chances of finding a table at sister restaurant Franceschetta 58, meanwhile, are much better, and the experience at this “family bistro” is just as enjoyable. Despite the laid-back surrounds, the level of cookery is astounding. See franceschetta.it

Franklin Barbecue, Austin, Texas

The fare at Austin’s Franklin Barbecue may not earn Michelin stars but is epic in its own way.

This is probably the most famous barbecue in the entire US, so be prepared to arrive early and queue for hours. It will be worth it, because the meats here, cooked low and slow in the smoker – brisket, pork ribs, sausages, pulled pork – are ridiculously good. Every other barbecue for the rest of your life will be ruined. See franklinbbq.com

Fugaz, Mexico City, Mexico

The intimate surrounds of Mexico City’s Fugaz, where it’s all about influences from Argentina, France and New York.

With three restaurants on the World’s 50 Best list, Mexico City is another hotspot for fine dining. You might not score a booking at those establishments, but you can try Fugaz, a low-key venue boasting a menu full of high cuisine. You’ll find influences here from France, Argentina and New York – but the panache is all Mexican. No website.

Fuku Yakitori, Tokyo, Japan

Secret’s out: Fuku Yakitori.

Friends of mine always say to me: “First rule of Fuku: don’t tell everyone about Fuku.” And yet here I am shouting it from the rooftops because this is a secret too good to keep. Fuku is a quiet, friendly yakitori joint in Yoyogi-Uehara, where the skewers are smoky and juicy, the beers are cold and the joy of just being there is unrivalled. See jpneazy.com

Gaststatte Sophieneck, Berlin, Germany

Gaststatte Sophieneck specialises in hearty stayers.

Every time I visit Berlin, I check out places I’ve never been to before, but I’m always going to have dinner at Gaststatte Sophieneck. They do hearty stayers – sausages, pork hocks, potato salad – plus there’s an excellent selection of vegetarian dishes and multiple local beers on tap. Simple, classic, good. See sophieneck-berlin.de

Geralds Bar, San Sebastian, Spain

Geralds Bar San Sebastian is almost the perfect restaurant.

Would you really go all the way to northern Spain to eat at a restaurant that’s a spin-off of a Melbourne bar? Yes, absolutely. Geralds Bar San Sebastian is almost the perfect restaurant with a cosy, wood-panelled dining room, charming service, a killer wine list and deceptively complex though eminently approachable cuisine by chef Jess Lorigo. See geraldsbar.eu

Gueyu Mar, Ribadesella, Spain

This understated seafood restaurant in coastal Asturias is a place of pilgrimage for food fans and not just because it’s on the Camino de Santiago: the grilled red bream at Gueyu Mar is the stuff of legend. A visit also provides the opportunity to stock up on Gueyu Mar’s tinned seafoods (cockles, razor clams, squid), which are sought after worldwide. See gueyumar.es

Harwood Arms, London, UK

Dishes at London’s Harwood Arms enhance the British pub experience.

Imagine taking the British pub experience and dialling it up to the gourmet realm, from the food to the drinks to the service. That’s Harwood Arms, where the menu features the likes of warm blue cheese tart with apple, celery and pickled walnuts and Berkshire venison with pale ale and prunes. Gorgeous. See harwoodarms.com

La Cabrera, Buenos Aires, Argentina

In Buenos Aires, when a certain steakhouse is repeatedly included in the World’s 50 Best list, There’s a little head-scratching. Many Portenos wouldn’t even consider it the best in their city. One of the contenders for that title is La Cabrera, where the atmosphere is casual but the grilled meats are very serious, not to mention delicious. See lacabrera.com.ar

Lei Garden, Singapore

There’s much to love about the hawker centres of Singapore, where you can get a cracking meal for a couple of bucks. When you’re in town, however, you should also experience the fine-dining side of Singapore, particularly the elevated Cantonese cuisine at Lei Garden. Prepare to spend up big on beautiful food in luxurious surroundings. See leigarden.hk

LiQun Roast Duck Restaurant, Beijing, China

Ask 10 Beijing residents for the best Peking duck restaurant in their city and you’ll probably get 10 different answers. You can’t go wrong, however, at LiQun, a humble, family-run eatery in a backstreet hutong where duck is roasted in a wood-fired oven and served at the table with all the trimmings. No website.

Matria, Lima, Peru

Arlette Chica’s restaurant Matria is hot right now in Lima, Peru.

The fine-dining scene in Lima is exploding now with multiple entrants on the World’s 50 Best list, and a former No.1 – Virgilio Martinez’s Central. However, those restaurants can be pricey and difficult to book. Instead, try Matria, chef Arlette Checa’s bistro-style eatery where the food is inventive and exciting, and always tasty. See matriarestaurante.com

Mil Centro, Cusco, Peru

This isn’t a meal, it’s an experience. And it’s mind-blowing. Mil Centro is set in the Andes mountains of Peru overlooking an Incan ruin, and the ingredients for each of eight courses (and all drinks) is sourced from a particular local ecosystem. The restaurant is the brainchild of Peruvian chef Virgilio Martinez, and every facet is exquisite. See milcentro.pe

Ministry of Crab, Colombo, Sri Lanka

The Ministry of Crab is a temple to seafood.

The pet project of a renowned restaurateur and two former cricket stars, the Ministry of Crab is a temple to seafood, particularly Sri Lankan mud crabs. The crabs are served in different ways but the Sri Lankan curry crab is a must, capturing the heady, punchy flavours of local cookery. See ministryofcrab.com

Pluviose, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France

Deep in the Pays Basque region of southern France, in a tiny 12-seat dining room on a quiet street, Australian Luke Dolphin is doing something amazing. The chef runs a one-man show here, cooking, serving, choosing wine, washing dishes – the lot. His menu changes daily, is made entirely with local produce and is supremely impressive. No website.

Quimet y Quimet, Barcelona, Spain

You’re not the only one to discover this tiny tapas bar in Barcelona’s Poble Sec: the place is packed Monday to Friday (it’s closed on weekends), and for good reason. The montaditos, or little sandwiches, are unrivalled and often use the bar’s own tinned seafood. The drinks list is longer than the bar itself. See quimetiquimet.com

Saneh Jaan, Bangkok, Thailand

Take a break from Bangkok’s street-food markets and down-home eateries for a night and dine at Saneh Jaan, which takes traditional Thai food into the fine-dining realm. The dishes here will be recognisable to fans of Thai cuisine, though rarely will you see them created and presented with such style. See sanehjaan.com

Santo Palato, Rome, Italy

Star chef Sarah Cicolini presents a mix of Roman classics and unique creations at this no-frills trattoria in working-class San Giuseppe, where far more effort has gone into the food than in fancying up the decor. It’s been a wild success too, thanks in no small part to Cicolini’s skill, so be sure to book well in advance. See santopalatoroma.it

Sushi Rinda, Tokyo, Japan

Sushi Rinda’s atmosphere borders on raucous. Credit: Suppleid

High-end sushi in Tokyo has two issues: the restaurants are very difficult to book and the atmosphere can feel a little stuffy if you don’t speak Japanese. The solution is Sushi Rinda, a relaxed eatery in Meguro where the food is high-end but the atmosphere borders on raucous, with chefs who speak some English and diners who love a chat. No website.

TTK Fledgelings, Cape Town, South Africa

TTK Fledgelings, in Cape Town, mentors chefs and front-of-house staff.

Luke Dale Roberts is a star of the South African food scene, though he’s taken a back seat recently, flipping his fine diner The Test Kitchen into TTK Fledgelings, where Roberts mentors cooks and front-of-house staff who have limited access to formal training. The menu is a free-wheeling affair with influences from Asia, Africa and Europe. See ttkfledgelings.co.za

Yod Abyssinia, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Ethiopian cuisine is one of the most underrated on the planet, a rich blend of spices and unique ingredients, all supported by the inevitable injera, a slightly sour pancake. In Addis Ababa, Yod Abyssinia is an excellent place to sample the best of the local cuisine, usually surrounded by a mix of locals and tourists. No website.

Ten not-necessarily-best-but-great affordable eateries

Antica Pizzeria di Matteo, Naples, Italy
When in Naples, you obviously have to eat pizza, but where? Try di Matteo, a classic in the Centro Storico, open since 1936, where a sensational margherita will set you back the princely sum of €5, or $8. Incredible. See pizzeriadimatteo.it

Al Ustad Special Kabab, Dubai, UAE
One of the great things about Dubai is that you get to sample the cuisines of the UAE’s neighbours. Case in point, Al Ustad Special Kabab, which serves Iranian-style barbecued meats and rice to the grateful masses. See alustadspecialkabab.com

Ebisoba Ichigen, Sapporo, Japan
You could include pretty much any ramen joint in Japan on this list and it would be a good pick. I’ve gone with a recent favourite, Sapporo icon Ebisoba Ichigen, which serves a heady, intense prawn broth with wavy noodles and pork chashu topping. See ebisoba.com

Madam Khanh the Banh Mi Queen, Hoi An, Vietnam
I’m calling it now: greatest sandwich on Earth. In the backstreets of Hoi An, well outside the historic centre, Madam Khanh serves up the most perfectly balanced, salty, sour, spicy, umami-rich pork roll you could ever imagine. No website.

Old Airport Road Food Centre, Singapore
This isn’t one restaurant but many, a classic Singapore hawker centre whose outlets dish up plenty of the city’s most loved dishes: lor mee, cheong fun, Hokkien fried mee, roast duck, char kway teow and more. No website.

Pasteis de Belem, Lisbon, Portugal
The inventors of the famous pastel de nata, or Portuguese tart, still make arguably the best sweet pastries in all of Lisbon, if not Portugal. Prepare to battle the crowds when you sit down at this historic venue for a coffee and treat. See pasteisdebelem.pt

Pho Phu Vuong, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
There are many great places to try pho (noodle soup) in Ho Chi Minh City. However, our pick is the modest Pho Phu Vuong, which has the most perfectly balanced, flavourful soup, with all the right toppings, that you could ever imagine. No website.

Ravi Restaurant, Dubai, UAE
Jump in a taxi in Dubai and ask the driver where’s good to eat and there’s a good chance you will hear about Ravi Restaurant. This no-frills Pakistani eatery, on the backstreets of Al Satwa, serves up delicious cuisine at very reasonable prices. No website.

Schwartz’s Deli, Montreal, Canada
New York has Katz’s Deli and its famous pastrami sandwiches, while Montreal has Schwartz’s and its “smoked meat” sandwich which deserves just as much fame. The meat is brisket which is cured, smoked, steamed and then hacked up and wedged between slices of bread. See schwartzsdeli.com

Tacos El Paisa, Mexico City, Mexico
Pick a taco stand, any taco stand. In Mexico City, you can’t go too wrong. However, for a real treat, make your way to Tacos El Paisa in the San Rafael neighbourhood for slow-cooked brisket tacos with red chilli salsa and confit onions. Insanely good. No website.

Ten restaurants closer to home

Arkhe, Adelaide, SA

Jake Kellie at Arkhé.

Chef Jake Kellie honed his wood-fired expertise at Singapore’s Burnt Ends, itself a disciple of Spain’s legendary grill restaurant Asador Etxebarri, and you can easily spot this quality in Kellie’s smart menu and deft touch at Arkhe. See arkhe.com.au

Brae, Birregurra, Vic
This pioneer of Australian fine dining is still going strong. The experience of driving out to Birregurra to enjoy chef Dan Hunter’s high-quality cuisine, and to then stay the night in one of the on-site villas, should be on every Aussie foodie’s wish list. See braerestaurant.com

Chauncy, Heathcote, Vic
Prepare to swoon at Chauncy – for the historic sandstone building that holds the cosy dining room, for the polished ease of sommelier Tess Murray’s service and, of course, for the beauty of French chef Louis Naepels’ seasonal menu. See chauncy.com.au

Fino, Barossa Valley, SA
Grab a seat on the sunny patio among the historic buildings of the Seppeltsfield winery and prepare to be dazzled by an unfussy menu of modern Australian classics. Pair each dish with a local wine and have yourself a good time. See fino.net.au

Flower Drum, Melbourne, Vic
There are very few restaurants in Australia, and even the world, that offer the formal, polished, though friendly style of service you receive at Flower Drum, a fixture on the Melbourne scene since 1975. The charm is unrivalled. See flowerdrum.melbourne

Graze, Wellington, NZ
Chef Max Gordy has something of an obsession with sustainability and he puts his money where his mouth is at Wellington wine bar Graze. Every ingredient is locally and ethically sourced and there’s minimal waste, though maximum skill, in its preparation. See grazewinebar.co.nz

Mapu Test Kitchen, Christchurch, NZ

Mapu Test Kitchen.

Another Kiwi-based star obsessed with locality and sustainability, chef Giulio Sturla has reinvented the dining experience at Mapu Test Kitchen with no menu, no wine list, no set opening hours and no staff. The result is amazingly good. See mapu.co.nz

Peppina, Hobart, Tas
It doesn’t seem reasonable that a hotel restaurant could be this good, but it is. At Peppina, chef Massimo Mele’s family-style Italian food is perfectly at home in a fine-dining atmosphere and the service is top notch. See peppinarestaurant.com

Saint Peter, Sydney, NSW
The only Australian restaurant to make inroads into the 50 Best list (it’s at No.98 in the extended tally) Josh Niland’s fish eatery is a towering achievement. It is a truly unique eatery where everything is executed with skill and dedication. See saintpeter.com.au

Where’s Nick, Sydney, NSW
If you’ve ever found yourself sitting in a classy though unpretentious wine bar in Paris or Rome, enjoying beautiful food and wine and thinking, why can’t we have venues like this in Australia, I have good news: we do. It’s called Where’s Nick. See wheresnick.com.au

Then and now: How has dining changed for travellers over the past 20 years?

Then

Photos? What photos?
A brief look through my holiday snaps from 20 years ago recently confirmed an interesting fact: taking photos of food was rare. I have not a single shot of the no doubt incredible dishes I ate back then.

Then … Ben Groundwater in a rare food pic from his younger days.

No online bookings
Of course, with comparatively primitive internet usage, the idea of booking a restaurant online had yet to take hold. When you were travelling you would just pick up the phone and tangle with the local language.

Absolute surprise
What’s on the menu tonight? No idea. Unless you actually walked to the venue beforehand and read the menu posted on the wall, you would never know what you were about to be served.

Guidebook recommendations
How did you choose restaurants when you were travelling 20 years ago? A lot of the time it was random, or occasionally through word of mouth. Many of us, meanwhile, relied on the questionable wisdom of a single Lonely Planet author.

Ugly plates
Humans “eat with their eyes”, so restaurant food always looked appetising. However, with no Instagram and no influencers, dishes 20 years ago tended to be much less colourful, with barely a flower petal in sight.

NOW

Now … Ben Groundwater, like many foodies, now has higher standards.

Food as art
You just know the restaurants that design their plates with social media in mind. The arty sauce flourishes, the popping colours, the bubbling foams, the edible flowers. Things have to look good for the ’gram.

Reviews, reviews, reviews
There are few surprises in the world of dining these days, as there are just so many reviews for every single establishment out there. Whether you go Google or Michelin, TripAdvisor or local blogger, you always know what you’re getting.

Pre-payment
At some point in the past 20 years – probably around the COVID-19 break – restaurant bookings became like concert tickets. You would have to pay when you booked. Or at least put down a deposit. Anyone who’s ever flaked on a restaurant booking: this is on you.

Homogeneity
The internet giveth, in terms of the vast information out there, but it also taketh away, because trends no longer appear just in one city or country, but spread lightning-fast across the globe. High-end restaurant plates the world over have all begun to look the same.

High standards
With more reviews, in my opinion at least, come higher standards. Restaurants just can’t afford to slip up these days, which means your likelihood of being served a truly great meal on your travels has increased.