Is there a relationship between the flavour depth and complexity of red wine and its alcohol content?

—R.B., Hobart

Low and no-alcohol “wines” are thin and taste nothing like wine that contains alcohol.

However, in conventional red wines, with alcohol strength between 12.5 per cent and 14.5 per cent, there’s little or no correlation between alcohol content and flavour.

The most important determinants of flavour depth and complexity are the grape variety and the place where the grapes were grown.

Higher-alcohol reds do tend to be fuller-bodied, but there are plenty of examples of reds with moderate alcohol that are full-bodied and powerful.

Warm-climate reds from Barossa and McLaren Vale also tend to have deeper colour, more tannin and body that are independent of their alcohol strengths, and that’s mostly a function of climate.

You say you’ve moved to Tasmania recently and while you enjoy “rich” McLaren Vale shiraz, you’re finding Tasmanian pinot noir “thinner”.

I’d describe Tassie pinot noir as generally lighter than most other reds, especially McLaren Vale shiraz. Not necessarily thinner, but lighter-bodied, less rich, less powerful and usually a little less alcoholic.

Consequently, pinot noir goes well with very different foods compared with, say, a big McLaren Vale shiraz: seafood and poultry rather than hearty beef.

Shiraz can ripen and produce excellent wine in Tasmania’s Tamar Valley, Coal Valley and East Coast these days, but it tastes very different to anything in
the Barossa or McLaren Vale. Less dark, less rich and with a spicier aroma.

It’s all about the location of the vineyard. Cool-climate wines generally have less alcohol than hot because the grapes achieve full ripeness at a lower sugar level.

Alcohol is an important part of wine’s taste and general appeal, as anyone who’s compared a reduced-alcohol red wine with the real thing will have discovered. Without it, wine lacks weight, mouth-feel and length of aftertaste. It’s emasculated!

Got a drinks question for Huon Hooke? thefullbottle@goodweekend.com.au