Chardonnay lends itself to grand occasions more than most whites. The best are wines of substance, complexity and stylish personality. A number of Australian regions produce fine chardonnay, but its Victorian heartland, mostly within a two-hour drive of Melbourne, is consistently one of the best sources. Some are expensive, special-occasion wines, but they are truly world-class, and the best uniquely add lustre to life, fine cuisine and memorable events. There is also the occasional real bargain to be had.

DCB Wine Chardonnay 2019, $22-$24

Score 92

From the Yarra Valley's north, this delicious combination of ripe peachy fruit, with subtle overlays of wild honey and peat smoke, is quietly complex, generous, seductive. A sense of purity and finesse lingers through the long finish. Screw cap; 13 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over three years.

Stockists include Boccaccio Cellars, Balwyn (Vic); mail order at dcbwine.com.au.

Chardonnay by Farr 2019, $80-$85

Score 96

Geelong chardonnay with quality heritage. Melon, nectarine, honey, cashew nuttiness and leesy characters subtly dressed in high quality oak. It's seamless and lush, tangy and already complex, with a lingering, superfine chalky-dry finish. Diam cork; 13.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over eight years.

Stockists include Five Way Cellars, Paddington (NSW); Blackhearts & Sparrows stores (Vic).

De Bortoli Lusatia Chardonnay 2017, $100-$120

Score 96

Ultra-refined Yarra chardonnay, subtle, dry, understated and fresh, but with great presence. White peach, grapefruit, oatmeal and struck match aromas track into an elegant, lingering, savoury mouthful of sustained authority. Screw cap; 12.7 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over eight years.

Stockists include Piedimonte's, Fitzroy North (Vic); Kemeny's, Bondi (NSW).