Many people in our community are undergoing real hardship at the moment, so the idea of shelling out a large amount for a bottle of wine will jar with many. It's far from an ideal time for Penfolds to launch the latest 2016 vintage of their famous Grange with a tag of $950. It's probably one of the best Granges ever, and value is a very subjective thing, but it is very pricey. It's not alone in the upper reaches of the price spectrum, though. Many benchmark European reds regularly command figures that put Grange in the shade, and these days several Australian shirazes sell for hundreds of dollars a bottle, too. So what goes into these wines that justifies the price tag? Heritage is one thing, perfectionism (in viticulture, winemaking and selection) is another. Scarcity and the influence of history add to the equation, and commercial motives are always there. The best of these wines are flagships for an industry to be proud of. For a special occasion splurge, an anniversary, birthday, or as a luxurious gift for a wine lover, they are mightily impressive.

Penfolds Grange 2016, $900-$950

Score: 98

Forceful, dense, concentrated. Essency black shiraz fruit, Siena cake, spice, violet, fig syrup and mocha woven through caramel-coconut oak. A profound, mouth-coating palate has a solid foundation of layered tannins, and it finishes ultra-long. Cork, 14.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Yes, three to 40 years.

Stockists include Due for release on August 6. Check Dan Murphy's, Mosman (NSW) and Hawthorn East (Vic); Vintage Cellars, Brighton (Vic) & Double Bay (NSW).

Yarra Yering Carrodus Shiraz 2018, $265-$275

Score: 96

Superfine essence of Yarra shiraz with floral notes, cherry fruit, almond, subtle oak and earthy spice in fragrant harmony. It's a stylish middleweight of silky texture, finely balanced integrated tannins, and a long, fragrant aftertaste. Screw cap; 14 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Yes, two to 15 years.

Stockists include Exclusive to Yarra Yering cellar door/online at yarrayering.com

Tahbilk 1860 Vines Shiraz 2015, $335-$345

Score: 95

From a small 160-year-old plot at Nagambie, Victoria, this complex wine offers earthy, gamey, truffley and minty notes to enhance juicy raspberry-like fruit. It's profound, balanced, lingering and savoury, evolving with air. Tradition in a bottle. Screw cap; 14 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over 20 years.

Stockists include Exclusive to Tahbilk cellar door/online at tahbilk.com.au