Sauvignon blanc is a wine many love to hate, in the same way they might profess to hate Abba, Ken Done or Harry Potter. Success can do that. In a sense, the pungent passionfruity style of Marlborough sauvignon blanc sells itself. It doesn't need the approval of critics, many of whom knock it.

But none of this can deny sauvignon blanc is one of the world's great grapes. When carefully grown fruit is harvested properly ripe, fermented on solids, in barrels, and the wine matured on its yeast lees, a more complex, attention-holding style can result – more Nick Cave than Justin Bieber​.

Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Wrattonbully, $50

Score 95

Fragrant, ripe aromas of gooseberry, kiwifruit, lemon and a patina of creamy lees, but no herbaceousness. Oak is not obvious: barrel maturation has been subtly done. It's intense, focused and long on the palate, with superior fruit concentration. Superb now but still youthfully restrained, it will reward several years' cellaring. Screw-cap; 13.1 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to 11 years.

Stockist terreaterre.com.au

Johansen Sauvignon Blanc 2019, Tumbarumba, $25

Score 90

A lip-smacking aperitif style, this very lightly oaked savvy has interesting aromas of almond-meal and dried flowers, with a certain Loire-like chalkiness. It's the opposite of the pungently vegetal sauvignon styles. Delicate but fruity in the mouth, with a dry but soft finish. Screw-cap; 13 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to five years.

Stockist johansenwines.com.au

Hungerford Hill Fumé Blanc 2018, Tumbarumba, $27

Score 90

A pure sauvignon blanc that was fermented in 20 per cent new oak, then spent 12 months in the barrel. There are nutty barrel-derived aromas with pleasant herbal, lemony fruit notes. The palate is delicate and dry, intense and clean: varietal but not stridently so. A little extra time will bring more complexity. Screw-cap; 13 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink now to five years.

Stockists include Pittwater Cellars, Mona Vale & Porters Midway Cellars, Denistone East (NSW) or hungerfordhill.com.au