Victoria has been the Australian home of the beguiling French white grape marsanne since the 19th century. Originally from the Rhone valley, marsanne's elegant dry whites have charmed generations of wine lovers. The largest Australian holdings (and possibly the world's most extensive) are at the wonderfully historic Tahbilk in the Nagambie Lakes district. Marsanne is good in its youth, but it can also age superbly, with some Tahbilks drinking incredibly well after decades in the cellar.

Tahbilk Museum Release Marsanne 2012, $24-$26

Score: 93

Thankfully Tahbilk releases well-priced, aged examples of marsanne like this. It offers mature quince, buttered toast and honeysuckle characters, while retaining vibrant flavours and tangy balance. A classic style. Screw cap; 12.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over three years.

Stockists include: Greythorn Cellars, North Balwyn (Vic); just released in NSW, see tahbilk.com.au

Yeringberg Marsanne Roussanne 2016, $63-$65

Score: 93

Marsanne blended with the rare Rhone grape roussanne from a lovely old Yarra Valley winery. Powerful with sweet herb, almond, apple pie and smokey aromas, it's rich and fleshy, but not heavy, finishing savoury, firm and dry. Screw cap; 14 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over four years.

Stockists include: Kent Street Cellars, Sydney (NSW); Prince Wine Store, South Melbourne (Vic).

Warramunda Estate Marsanne 2018, $38-$40

Score: 91

A complex young Yarra Valley marsanne with a nose of cream toffee, honey, white peach and steel. In the mouth it's smooth and seamless with good depth and persistence, a subtle, mouth-watering line of acidity in support. Diam cork; 12 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over four years.

Stockists include: The Wine Corner, Carlton North (Vic); Moncur Cellars, Woollahra (NSW).