Australian pinot noir has come a long way in 40 years. Initial efforts with this capricious red grape were mixed, and pinots treated in the winery like other conventional Australian red wines often disappointed. Local winemakers' expertise grew, and experience gained across the world led to new approaches with Australian pinot noir. The focus became the cooler temperate parts of the country, with Victoria growing into the country's pinot HQ. Today Victorian pinot noir stands comparison with the nation's best red wines.

Silent Way Pinot Noir 2016 $25

Score 91

Pure and inviting, this Macedon Ranges pinot has juicy cherry aromas with light complexing notes of florals and herbs. It's medium-bodied with succulent balance of fruit, zippy acidity and light, drying tannins. Long and fine, Silent Way offers excellent varietal identity at a fair price. Screw cap; 13 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over three years.

Stockists include Moncur Cellars, Woollahra (NSW); Prince Wine Store, South Melbourne & Essendon (Vic).

Hurley Vineyard Garamond Pinot Noir 2015 $77-$80

Score 95

A Mornington Peninsula pinot noir of some power, Hurley Garamond has balanced oak framing fruitcakey pinot fruit with suggestions of yeast extract and forest herbs. It's velvety in the mouth with a lovely balance of perfectly integrated acidity and tannins. Should age well, but already delicious. Diam cork; 13.5 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Drink over eight years.

Stockists include Prince Wine Store, South Melbourne (Vic); Prince Wine Store, Zetland (NSW).

Yarra Yering Pinot Noir 2016 $100

Score 94

Yarra Yering's pinot noirs are among the Yarra Valley's best. Ideally this wine needs bottle age, but it's all there for the future. Intense red berry, floral and foresty notes on the nose, quality oak, supple mid-palate fruit, good tannin support and excellent balance. Very stylish pinot. Screw cap; 14 per cent alcohol.

Ageing? Yes, two to 10 years.

Stockists include Yarra Yering cellar door or website yarrayering.com.