It’s a big year for The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide, with the latest edition marking the 40th anniversary of the annual restaurant guidebook. It’s a bittersweet celebration, though, because for hospitality, 2024 has been incredibly tough. Guest spends and bookings are down, costs are skyrocketing, and despite a stream of openings, there’s also been a wave of operators closing their doors for good.

All the more reason, then, to give a shout-out to some of the restaurants in this year’s Good Food Guide that have stood the test of time.

The remarkable thing about almost all the venues is that either the original chef or owner is still at the helm, or members of their family. (The exception is Berowra Waters Inn, opened by Gay and Tony Bilson 50 years ago, but now owned and operated by husband and wife Brian and Victoria Geraghty.) We asked these operators to reflect on the ups, downs and in-betweens they’ve experienced on their path to institution status.

50 years

Berowra Waters Inn

What has made Berowra Waters Inn so enduring?

GeBrian Geraghty (current owner-chef): The Inn is much more of an experience than a restaurant. It’s the sum of all its parts, even the fact of the pilgrimage-like journey that needs to be endeavoured upon to arrive, then the backdrop being the Hawkesbury, to add to that the architecture – Glenn’s work is timeless.

Glenn Murcutt (original architect): What I realised was that on that site, at lunchtime, when the sun hit the western escarpment opposite, it became the most beautiful piece of landscape. And then with boats plying backwards and forwards up the river, with the louvres open, you get a reflection of the water, and all of a sudden, the water almost comes into the room through the louvres.

What have you learnt about operating in a legacy site?

Geraghty: I am merely a custodian of a building, and when that building has a legacy, it is hard to create your own identity. I have moulded to the building. If I was cooking anywhere else, I might not have gone down the all-Australian road.

What are some of the things from the restaurant’s history that still stand out to you?

Geraghty: The fact that many guests have dined through the iterations of the Inn, from Gay [original owner-chef Gay Bilson] all the way to myself. The restaurant has a very special place in our dining heritage.

How does what you offer differ from what the original offered?

Geraghty: We are very much trying to identify an Australian cooking philosophy, built around produce and ingredients, cooking techniques, and heritage. Before my custodianship, the Inn was, all things considered, a French restaurant.

In what ways is it similar?

Geraghty: I would like to say, if not too arrogant, we still pursue quality in the same way all other caretakers of the Inn have. I do, however, say this humbly – I very much stand in the footsteps of giants.

35 years

• Abhi’s Indian Restaurant, North Strathfield
• Chat Thai, various locations

What’s made your restaurant so enduring?

Kumar Mahadevan, Abhi’s: The focus for Abhi’s has always been on consistency. My head chef has been with me for over 25 years and my manager, more than 20 years. We have all grown with each other. We also pride ourselves in sourcing quality produce, from Claudio’s for our seafood, to a goat from a butcher in Auburn, and our Indian spice supplier, who has been the same for 22 years.

What do you know now that you wish you’d known then?

Palisa Anderson, Chat Thai: I look back on the Herald’s [less than positive] Chat Thai review from 1991 with amusement. Knowing the backstory, I can see exactly how it came to be. I would’ve been 10 at the time. My mum [Chat Thai founder Amy Chanta] was still working with Apichat Ku in Darlinghurst, though that was destined to last less than a year more. Mum learnt that she just needed to cook the food she wanted to eat and present that to the world, not an aspiring Western version of Thai food.

What is your biggest regret or mistake?

Anderson: All experiences are potential learning platforms. We try to make decisions based on what we know at the time, and if that doesn’t work, then you need to pivot. Financial loss can be a breaking point for many businesses, and if you dig your heels in too deeply, you might never be able to recoup that loss.

How has what you’ve offered changed, and how has it stayed the same?

Mahadevan: Customers’ awareness of Indian cuisine is now very high. This makes them more adventurous. For example, goat curry was not popular in the earlier days; now it’s our top seller. Still, the traditional dishes – palak patta chaat, chicken makhni, beef ambotik – continue to anchor our menu.

Anderson: More or less everything on our menu has changed. We’re 10 years into our regenerative farming practice [Boon Luck Farm] that supplies our restaurants. In that decade alone, we’ve seen market prices skyrocket. Having our own market garden farm has definitely helped alleviate the pressure of maintaining our quality offering and prices. It’s also influenced how we write our menu, which changes significantly seasonally.

30 years

Catalina, Rose Bay

What’s made Catalina so enduring?

Judy McMahon: Owning a successful restaurant for so many years is about much more than putting a beautiful plate of food in front of someone (although that’s very important). It’s about all of us having a collective memory about that customer, where they like to sit, what they like to eat and drink, what their child’s name is, the special occasions that Catalina has been part of. We’re part of the community.

Any regrets?

I can’t think of any regrets, except wishing I’d been a lot more involved in the decision-making in the early days. But we had young children, so I left a lot to my late husband Michael. That was the way things were 30 years ago, but I wish I’d questioned it. I’ve made up for it now, but I don’t think I realised until recently how differently I do things. Whether it’s because I’m a woman, I don’t know, but I do know that we have a happier team and happier customers under my watch. (We have a better bottom line, too).

How has what you’ve offered changed?

I think our level of effort has changed. Our kitchen is more creative and nimble, and as people’s tastes have changed, we’ve adapted. For example, when we first opened, champagne was people’s favourite pre-meal drink, and you’d only serve the odd martini. Now it takes at least four barmen to run a busy shift, and we have another making cocktails at the table. We’ve also changed our menu to fixed-price a la carte, added more luxury food, and recently introduced a tasting menu.

In what ways has it stayed the same?

The snapper fillet is the same – we can’t take it off the menu! And at its heart, Catalina is still a family business, with [children] James and Kate taking the reins more, but with me still firmly attached. We still have lots of energy, new ideas, and feel that our best years are still ahead of us. What an amazing thing that is after 30 years. It makes me so proud.

25 years

Aria, Circular Quay

What’s made Aria so enduring?

Matt Moran: I think we’ve built a reputation for delivering something special, but a successful restaurant isn’t just about one thing – it’s about the whole package. The view is iconic, but it’s the world-class Australian produce, along with our wine list and service, that really makes us stand out. But the real backbone has been the staff. So many have stayed with us for more than 15 years, and the entire time we’ve been open, we’ve only had four head chefs.

How has what you’ve offered changed, or not changed?

It’s always been about finding the best ingredients and letting them shine, and creating a memorable experience. Over the years, we’ve refined our approach, but the narrative has stayed the same. We’re 25 years strong, and we’re planning on another 25.

20 years

Pilu at Freshwater, Freshwater

What’s allowed Pilu to stand the test of time?

Marilyn Annecchini and Giovanni Pilu: Pilu has always been about more than just the food. It’s about authenticity – staying true to our Sardinian heritage while celebrating the ingredients Australia has to offer. Over the years, we’ve also become part of countless special moments – birthdays, anniversaries, weddings – which is something we’ll never take for granted.

What do you know now that you wish you’d known then?

If there’s one thing we could have done differently, it would be finding a better balance between work and family in those early days. We poured so much of ourselves into the restaurant and it often came at the expense of time we could have spent together. That said, we’re so grateful that our kids, Martino and Sofia, have never held it against us.

15 years

• Italian and Sons, Canberra
• Muse Restaurant, Hunter Valley
• Ormeggio at The Spit, Mosman
• Spice Temple, CBD

What’s been the key to your longevity?

Anna and Alessandro Pavoni, Ormeggio at The Spit: A focus on the quality of everything, longevity of staff so we really know our guests and each other – and a water view always helps!

Troy Rhoades-Brown, Muse Restaurant: We remain focused on the dishes and experiences that define us, and retaining key staff who embody these values is essential.

What do you know now that you wish you’d known then?

Andy Evans, Spice Temple: Being a hothead in the kitchen doesn’t inspire anyone; it actually does more damage in the long run. These days, understanding people is a huge focus for us.

Pasquale Trimboli, Italian and Sons: If you don’t understand the ingredients, then you have nothing. It’s also not all about cooking good food. It’s about being able to pass on the cultural story behind that dish that allows you to understand it. If you don’t know why, then sometimes it loses its “seasoning,” so to speak.

How has what you’ve offered changed?

Anna Pavoni: I always say Alessandro’s short attention span is both his best and worst quality; it means that he’s never able to sit still and just do the same thing every day. Ormeggio has reinvented itself four times in a major way since opening, each time successfully.

In what ways has it stayed the same?

Alessandro Pavoni: We’ve never lost focus on the quality of food, service and drinks, professional and approachable service, and the commitment to knowing and engaging with our guests. Behind the scenes, we are resilient. We know our numbers. We are not scared of change and we work well together.

What is your biggest regret or mistake?

Rhoades-Brown: I opened Muse when I was 24, so I’ve made almost every mistake possible along the way, but behind each mistake is now a procedure, so there are no regrets, just lessons learnt.

10 years

• Ho Jiak, Strathfield
• Yellow, Potts Point
• Al Shami, Merrylands
• Chaco Bar, Darlinghurst and Potts Point

What has made your restaurant so enduring?

Junda Khoo, Ho Jiak: We didn’t find our identity for the first year. We were worried about what others thought about our food, whether we were traditional enough, whether our food was too expensive. But once we found our identity, we focused on cooking delicious food rather than worrying about tradition.

Brent Savage, Yellow: Yellow’s enduring success lies in its organic evolution. From its beginnings as a neighbourhood bistro, it transitioned into a vegetarian restaurant and has now become a fully fledged vegan fine diner. It’s kept it relevant.

What do you know now that you wish you’d known then?

Ali Snoubar, Al Shami: In the early days, we focused on perfecting the menu and operations, but quickly realised that building relationships with our customers and becoming a hub were just as vital.

How has what you’ve offered changed, or how has it stayed the same?

Keita Abe, Chaco Bar: When we first opened Chaco Bar, it was a 24-seat yakitori restaurant driven by the desire to deliver authentic Japanese food. If fresh liver was available, I would skewer it and serve it medium. I remember customers who were unfamiliar with Japanese food looking at me with disgusted expressions – now, it’s a fond memory. I continue to serve what I genuinely want customers to enjoy – things that I also love to eat.

What’s your biggest mistake or regret?

Snoubar: Underestimating the importance of work-life balance. As passionate as I was about establishing Al Shami, I often found myself and my partners pouring all our energy into the business. While it was a tough lesson to learn, it helped us develop better systems, delegate effectively, and build a strong, supportive team.

The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2025, featuring more than 450 reviews, is on sale for $14.95 from newsagents, supermarkets and at thestore.com.au.

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