On the banks of the Yarra below Federation Square, with an up-close view of the Arts Centre spire, Riverland is at its bustling best on warm days, when drinkers flock to the picnic-style benches and tree-shaded decks or to the various nooks and crannies inside the bluestone vaults that house the bar. With such a location, Riverland could probably serve nothing but tepid VB and still draw a crowd, but the wine list is long and considered, with Tuscan reds sharing space with Spanish whites and French and Australian sparklings. There are decent spirits, a few aperitifs plus Asahi beer and two types of cider.