Velvet drapes, starched white linen and a classic kitchen reveal a proud Gallic heart. Sugar-cured local trout with chive-flecked creme fraiche and a chilled soup of sweetcorn and crab are elegant starters. Simple mains like confit chicken with herbed lentils satisfy, and if the gorgeous chocolate souffle is on, don't miss it. Service may sometimes be stretched but it's unfailingly friendly.