Carlton Espresso captures the essence of Lygon Street’s lively Italian spirit. It's in the handsome, low-key counter-service set-up, authentic produce and exuberant, jocular charm. Lunchtimes fill to capacity with diners enjoying rustic pastas (penne with cauliflower, toasted almonds and gorgonzola cream; or pappardelle with porcini), all of which can be enriched with optional additions of buffalo mozzarella, scamorza, ricotta or rocket. Fat squares of guanciale-rich lasagna ooze with velvety bechamel sauce, while a farro salad of spelt, cannellini beans, artichokes, zucchini and ricotta is light and lemony. Coffee is exceptional, naturalmente.