The people of Lyon are on to a good thing. They invented the bouchon, an eatery built on warm service and well-cooked produce. Chef Travis Rodwell has brought the concept to Bendigo, where he’s earned an excellent reputation for French classics such as snails with garlic butter and char-grilled quail with punchy bois boudran sauce. Mains such as wagyu porterhouse are a worthy match for Heathcote shiraz.