Would a steakhouse work in West End? Restaurateur Michael Tassis wasn’t sure.

When Tassis was first shown through West Village, where he opened Rich & Rare in late September, he thought the precinct was a great fit for a steak restaurant. But he wondered about the surrounding suburb, which is better known for fast-paced, casual and often vegetarian food.

“But there are also a lot of pubs that do well there, for example,” Tassis says. “And there wasn’t a steakhouse. So, I had a good feeling, but I wasn’t sure it would work out.”

Six weeks after Rich & Rare opened, it’s well and truly worked out. Tassis says the restaurant is fully booked most nights.

“We’re so busy,” he says. “Today’s full. Tonight’s full. The rest of the week is full. Last night was packed. We capped numbers when we first opened, but not anymore.”

Tassis is a restaurateur on a roll, having opened Fosh at Portside in August and Rich & Rare neighbour Yamas Greek and Drink last year. A pan-Asian inspired restaurant, Longwang, will open early next year. Tassis also owns Massimo and Opa Bar and Mezze on the river in the CBD.

He has previous experience operating steakhouses with Fatcow Steak & Lobster at the now closed Eagle Street Pier (he’s looking for a new location), but says Rich & Rare is designed to be more of an approachable, neighbourhood venue.

“Fatcow is a city brand,” he says. “Maybe it sounds silly, but having a new brand allows us to play with people’s expectations a little more.”

The fit-out is another looker from regular Tassis designers Clui – all marble and slick grey tiling, parquet walls and timber accents. The venue has enormous glass windows, which can be opened on the Boundary Street side, and there’s a lush, shaded terrace overlooking the West Village precinct. At the entranceway is an eye-catching semi-cylindrical dry-ageing room and temperature controlled wine cellar.

At night, when the lights are low, the place is a vibe.

The menu goes big on the beef, of course, but there’s also seafood, snacks and signature sides to keep things interesting.

For entrees, you might order woodfired beets with goat’s curd, hummus and black garlic puree; raw kingfish with tomato water, finger lime and coastal herbs; or seared scallops with caramelised cauliflower puree and jamon crumb.

Larger plates include market fish with salmon roe, miso butter and pickled kohlrabi; truffled mushroom ragu spaghetti with porcini dust; and whole live lobster with lemon butter dressing and finger lime.

Still – let’s be honest – you’re here for the steak.

The core list includes a 600-gram dry-aged sirloin, a 600-gram rib on the bone and a 250-gram grass-fed eye fillet. There’s also a Wagyu menu that features both Australian and Japanese raised beef. Cuts include a 250-gram, nine-score Australian rump cap; a 150-gram 12-score Japanese striploin; and a five-score Japanese Wagyu tomahawk.

Every steak comes with a classic side such as kipflers, green beans with goats curd, or a mixed leaf salad with manouri cheese and yuzu dressing. You can also add a signature side such as mixed tomatoes with basil and stracciatella, bone marrow mash with beef jus, and truffled mac’n’cheese.

There’s nothing super out-of-the-box here but, as is often the case with Tassis’ restaurants, the quality of the produce tends to shine through. It’s also keenly priced for a steakhouse, and gets particularly wallet friendly with a nine-plate $50 banquet that can be ordered between 11am and 6pm and includes the market fish and a sirloin steak.

Drinks keep it similarly straightforward, with signature and classic cocktails, and an efficient 103-bottle wine list that favours Australian and New Zealand drops, most of which can be had for between $70 and $100.

“My venues, I always try to make them approachable,” Tassis says. “I want people to walk in and feel comfortable. If you have a group of friends, most people eat steak, but there’s also plenty of fish or something vegetarian. Everyone can engage with that mix, I think.”

Open Daily 11am-late.

97 Boundary Street, West End, (07) 3638 8888.

richandrare.com.au