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The best new places to eat and drink in Brisbane

Fiona Donnelly

Golden age of dining: The seafood platter from Rothwell's Bar & Grill in Brisbane.
Golden age of dining: The seafood platter from Rothwell's Bar & Grill in Brisbane.Supplied

Queensland's capital has been evolving non-stop over the past 12 months, welcoming everything from fresh fire-powered bakeries and bakery-powered wine bars to new omakase-inspired delights. The Brisbane scene has rarely been hotter than it is right now.

Exhibition offers an omakase-inspired experience.
Exhibition offers an omakase-inspired experience.Supplied

Exhibition Restaurant

Angle for a counter booking at this subterranean 24-seater – this is an exhibition that merits a close-up. Billed as an omakase-inspired experience, the opening nine snack salvo makes the tastiest of declarations of intent. These might feature a savoury duck broth, tiny sweet raw ama ebi prawn, and an abalone liver pâté smoothed across shokupan bread. Larger offerings, such as roasted dry-aged duck breast with bronzed skin and a beetroot-juniper sauce, are equally impressive. For owner-chef Tim Scott, Exhibition is a sequel to Joy, the two-hander he founded with then-partner chef Sarah Baldwin in 2019, Good Food Guide 2020's New Restaurant of the Year. Tiny Joy continues to be booked out months in advance under Baldwin's solo direction.

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Basement, 109 Edward Street, Brisbane, exhibitionrestaurant.com

Butler Wine Bar

When cult Melbourne bakery Lune Croissanterie fired-up its first Queensland project last August, there were blockbuster queues in South Brisbane. The arrival in July of Butler, the group's first wine bar, was a less frenzied affair. But this sleek player, which sits beside Lune, is every bit as crisply detailed as its sibling's fabled croissants. Occupying a long slim tenancy that's clad in polished timbers, with clever use of mirrors and Tom Dixon pendant lamps, Butler is a chic spot to savour a glass of Delinquente's Riverland rosé, or Italian Plastic's Golden blend. Snacks are as considered as the fit-out. Try cheesy puffs with a foamy comte bechamel, or a brittle-based mushroom tart with tarragon mayo. And if you should also fancy a croissant break in the Brisbane CBD? Good news. Lune launched a second venue in Burnett Lane earlier this month.

15 Manning Street, South Brisbane, butlerwinebar.com

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Sushi Room

Downstairs this Japanese-inspired venue is all shades of monochrome grey and theatrical pools of light, with white-jacketed head-chef Shimpei Raikuni coolly presiding over a blonde hinoki wood counter. On the mezzanine, there's a private scarlet-hued dining room for eight. Start with oysters or a sushi set – nigiri showcasing gleaming alfonsino, fatty otoro and more – then segue into sashimi and tempura. A honey miso glazed duck breast main arrives with a single shiitake, sansho pepper and charcoal salt. Be warned. Your credit card may need rehab afterwards.

The Calile Hotel, 48 James Street, Fortitude Valley, sushiroom.com.au

Essa sits just off James Street in a slender split-level tenancy that's cleverly lit.
Essa sits just off James Street in a slender split-level tenancy that's cleverly lit.Supplied

Essa

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Some wood-fired venues make a song and dance about the drama of the flame. At Essa it's more subtle. This smartly tailored player sits just off James Street in a slender split-level tenancy that's cleverly lit, with plenty of contrasting textures – think smooth green marble, bare bricks, leather banquettes. The dishes here are full-flavoured and always thoughtfully influenced by the grill. Chickpea beignets might come out as knobbly puffballs designed for dipping into a pool of caramelised scallop cream; an heirloom tomato salad could score a house XO sauce made with charcuterie off-cuts; line-caught grilled John Dory may arrive slicked with a brown butter sauce brightened with lemon myrtle capers. Expect tightly focused fire-power that's produce-led.

181 Robertson Street, Fortitude Valley, essa.restaurant

Sunshine

Be ready for FOMO on your first visit to this casual vegetarian eatery, with its jaunty yellow sidewalk umbrellas. Inside it's an airy Mediterranean buffet-style affair with dishes charged per 100 grams by weight, deli-style. You simply point and your pick is plated-up or decanted into an eco takeaway container. But with more than two dozen options, ranging from vibrant salads and restorative greens to tomato-soaked Greek baked beans, spanakopita squares and more, it's odds on you'll spot something else you simply can't pass by before you hit the checkout. This is wholesome, home-style fare delivered by the team behind Hellenika, SK Steak & Oyster and Sushi Room. Thirsty? A wine list is projected on the wall above.

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39 James Street, Fortitude Valley, sunshine-eatery.com

Rothwell's Bar & Grill

This homage to the golden age of dining occupies an historic building in downtown Brisbane. Interiors are dialled up with green leather booths and oversized chandeliers and there's oodles of silverware – your martini top-up, for example, stays chilled in its own silver ice-filled carafe. Expect classics like beef wellington for two, properly prepped oysters, and crudos conjured from a slick marble raw bar centrally located in the main dining room. Rothwell's lobby bar with its copper-topped counter could be the perfect post-shopping/pre-theatre destination. A club sandwich to go with that icy martini? Owners, wine importer/restaurateur Dan Clark (1889 Enoteca, Woolloongabba) and former long-time Aria chef Ben Russell (ex-exec chef Yoko and Greca, Brisbane) are at the helm.

235 Edward Street, Brisbane, rothwellsbrisbane.com.au

Photo: Supplied
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Agnes Bakery

There's a whiff of woodsmoke as you cross the threshold of this bakery housed in a charming heritage cottage. Shelves are arrayed with treats like smoked potato sourdough, Roman-style pizza slices and umami-laden savory pastries featuring the likes of anchovy-laced gentleman's relish, parmesan and bacon. Sweets more your speed? The Basque cheesecake is a signature, ditto a handful of kouign-amann, maybe a berry and butter cream, or cinnamon sugar number. You can also buy the house-cultured smoked butter that features at clever elder sibling Agnes Restaurant.

85 James Street, Fortitude Valley, agnesbakery.com.au

Inter/section

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It used to be tricky tracking down decent coffee in the Brisbane CBD, but things are perking up. This month Inter/section kicks off, a massive hybrid space from the brains behind one of the city's pioneering new wave cafes, Coffee Anthology. Located at the base of Rio Tinto's HQ, Inter/section runs the width of a city block, with entrances on Charlotte and Mary streets. The venture combines digs for Coffee Anthology, a snappy patisserie called Whisk, a dedicated area for guest roasters and the adventurous Fika Swedish Kitchen.

155 Charlotte Street, Brisbane, @intersectionfd

Nota

Euro-leaning venue Nota delighted regulars this year by taking on the next-door tenancy, adding a wine bar to its name in June. The best seats in the house remain a high stool at the storied former Montrachet marble comptoir. Here you can easily chat to affable staff and uncover a match for that umami-bomb beef carpaccio, boosted with tuna mayo and showered in parmesan, fried shallots and capers. By-the-glass options are a tight but satisfyingly eclectic selection that includes skin contact drops such as Aller Trop Loin's Trippy Rabbit alongside the likes of Craggy Range sav blanc. 224 Given Terrace, Paddington, nota.restaurant

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Dr Gimlette

With its curved button-back booths, polished hardwood flooring and crystal glittering overhead, Dr Gimlette is a debonair addition to the Brisbane cocktail scene, occupying digs in the same city centre building as Exhibition Restaurant. The latest from Martin Lange and his crew, the force behind benchmark bars such as Death & Taxes and Cobbler, Dr Gimlette is laser-focused on cocktails. There's no food but you can try four versions of its namesake gimlet cocktail, or summon one of two martini carts, designed to cater to every whim, shaken, stirred, dirty or wet. Expect a well-stocked back bar and courteous table service too.

109 Edward Street, Brisbane, drgimlettebar.com.au

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Original URL: https://www.watoday.com.au/goodfood/brisbane-eating-out/best-new-places-to-eat-and-drink-in-brisbane-20220817-h25s3c.html