Well-known SA food critic apologises after dinner outburst leaves Hobart restaurant owners ‘reeling’

An SA food critic’s visit to an acclaimed new restaurant left an award-winning chef “disgusted” – prompting an apology from the reviewer.

An Adelaide food critic’s visit to a Tasmanian restaurant on the weekend left an award-winning chef “disgusted” – and prompted a grovelling apology from the reviewer.

SA Life writer Paul Wood’s visit to Hobart-based Omotenashi went poorly, prompting a heated exchange over social media and private messages.

According to restaurant chef Lachlan Colwill, who previously ran the Barossa Valley’s award-winning Hentley Farm, Wood disrupted other diners in the intimate venue with rude behaviour.

Lachlan Colwill and Sophie Pope at their new venue Omotenashi in Hobart. Picture: Adam Gibson

The situation escalated to a point where Colwill said he asked Wood to leave, while Wood said he left the venue of his own accord. The critic then unleashed over Instagram, telling followers the meal was a “waste of time” and “probably the worst, overpriced dinner in Hobart”.

However, Colwill said Wood’s words weren’t “coming from a place of critique or thoughtful analysis”, saying he felt the aim of the post was to “hurt their business and degrade their names”.

SA Life writer Paul Wood’s visit to Hobart-based Omotenashi went poorly, prompting a heated exchange over social media and private messages. Picture: Supplied

Wood later apologised in a statement to The Advertiser, admitting the restaurant had served “excellent food in a unique location”. Picture: Supplied

“I’m all for journalism and criticism. But how does it feel to be critiqued by someone whose critique doesn’t come from any place of professional approach or intelligence?” Colwill said.

The restaurant, a 10-seat Japanese Kaiseki-style restaurant, remained shut on Sunday after the experience left Colwill and business partner Sophie Pope “reeling”.

“We didn’t finish until about 3am … but we haven’t slept,” he said. “So we’ve made the decision to close our business today because we are emotionally and physically drained from the situation.”

SA Life restaurant reviewer Paul Wood. Picture: Tricia Watkinson

Wood, with judge Pete Evans, on the set of Channel 7 reality cooking show My Kitchen Rules in 2010.

Wood later apologised in a statement to The Advertiser, admitting the restaurant had served “excellent food in a unique location”.

“As a lover of food, I was looking forward to a sensational dining experience at the renowned Omotenashi restaurant last night, and regret that it turned sour,” he said.

“I also have a love of banter that I recognise can sometimes backfire … and I am very sorry to have caused any offence to either the business owners or other diners. Any comments from me yesterday about my experience at the restaurant should not be viewed by anyone as a professional review. I sincerely hope that my apology is accepted, and that the restaurant will continue to flourish.”

The Advertiser’s restaurant reviewer, Simon Wilkinson, said being honest and constructive had to go hand-in-hand with criticism. “When you’re writing about a restaurant, as with a business of any kind, you have a responsibility to be careful about what you say,” he said.

“What you’re writing is a reflection of what other customers also are feeling, and your first responsibility is to the customer, as opposed to just being a piece of promotion for that business.” The social media spat prompted a flood of supportive messages to Colwill and the business.

“If someone is (posting damaging claims) and nobody’s calling it out and letting them do it, they just get worse and the industry just gets worse for it,” the chef said.

Originally published as Well-known SA food critic apologises after dinner outburst leaves Hobart restaurant owners ‘reeling’