Mesmerising water view from Stewarts Bay Beach House, at Port Arthur, never goes out of style
Beautiful, calm, sheltered, tree-lined Stewarts Bay, on the Tasman Peninsula, is still every bit as tranquil and picturesque as it was when I first started visiting it decades ago, writes Linda Smith
Travel
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Sometimes when we revisit places and memories from our childhood we are disappointed, because they don’t live up to our expectations.
Like rewatching our favourite childhood cartoons, only to realise how poor the picture quality was, and to discover the plot and the jokes weren’t as fabulous or as funny as we remembered them to be.
Or revisiting a childhood holiday spot as an adult, only to discover that it has lost much of its shine.
However, Stewarts Bay certainly does NOT fall into this category.
This beautiful, calm, sheltered, tree-lined beach at Port Arthur, on the Tasman Peninsula, is still every bit as tranquil and picturesque as it was when I first started visiting it decades ago.
The shallow water – an enchanting shade of green – laps gently at the white sandy shore, regardless of the weather, as shimmering sunlight dances across the surface.
A moored yacht bobs in the distance, the odd kayaker paddles past, and you might see a dog walker stroll past or a family playing happily in the shallows.
But for the most part, Stewarts Bay is one of those beaches that feels like your own private beach.
And a great way to enjoy this slice of waterfront paradise is by staying at Stewarts Bay Beach House.
This two-storey, three-bedroom property is nestled perfectly among the trees, set back only a few metres from the beach. And the view of the water from the upstairs master bedroom and living areas couldn’t be more perfect.
I was lucky enough to spend two nights here recently with my husband and two kids, aged 5 and 7. And it really did feel like two nights in paradise.
We had actually stayed at the property previously, in 2017, when the boys were very small. My eldest son was only three at that time, but it’s a place he has never forgotten – he has asked to return to “the blue house at the beach” many times in the years since.
So we were excited to return. With the boys being older this time around, we were able to make better use of the amenities during this visit – testing out the kayaks, attempting (unsuccessfully) to catch a fish with the supplied fishing gear, playing bocce and other beach games on the sand, and then playing board games inside and curling up on the couch to watch a movie on Foxtel during a brief period of rain.
We also took an easy stroll (about 15-20 minutes each way) along the coastal trail from Stewarts Bay to the entrance of Port Arthur Historic Site, spotting a wallaby and plenty of birds and colourful wildflowers along the way.
But the activity the boys loved most was a simple one – seeing who could successfully throw small sticks, shells, rocks and gumnuts across the tannin-stained lagoon at one end of the beach, and have them land safely on the sandy shore opposite.
The beach house has a well-equipped kitchen and a well-stocked pantry with plenty of staples to get you started if you feel like cooking. We enjoyed breakfast on the timber deck each morning, watching kookaburras and blue wrens dart about while admiring the rising sun, as the deep red sky made way for lighter patches of mauve, lilac and orange, before transitioning to a brilliant blue.
It’s like having a front-row seat to nature’s best documentary.
There’s an equally impressive view from the master bed if you choose to raise the blinds, and also from the bathtub and double shower, if you choose to slide open the timber shutters.
Even when you’re not looking directly at the view you can still see it, as it reflects in the sliding glass doors at the rear of the property, or in the bathroom mirror. High windows also ensure you can gaze up at the towering gum trees and the twinkling stars in the night sky when you’re lazing in bed or brushing your teeth, and the heated floors ensure the light-filled home feels cosy, regardless of the weather. Even with the blinds drawn and your eyes closed, you can still enjoy the presence of the ocean, as you’re lulled to sleep by the sounds of the gentle waves lapping at the shore nearby.
It would be easy to spend your entire stay at the beach house, admiring the view, or lazing on the beach.
But we did venture out for a delicious lunch at the Port Arthur Lavender farm/restaurant which included perfectly-cooked salt and pepper squid, a roasted vegetable stack with haloumi, house-made chicken nuggets and chips and blueberry and lavender infused pancakes piled high with berry compote and white chocolate and lavender ice cream.
The Stewarts Bay Lodge restaurant is also nearby, but the boys were equally happy with a pizza and burgers from the local takeaway shop.
Stewarts Bay Beach House owner Peter McKay, who runs Pembroke Vineyard with his wife Zoe, grew up visiting the area, camping in the campground before his dad purchased waterfront land in the 1960s at the Sorell saleyards.
At first his family camped on site, then eventually moved into a caravan, before he and Zoe built the beach house, which they have hired out to guests since 2011.
The property is solidly booked, year-round, with many repeat visitors.
It’s not hard to see why.
I’ll admit I’m not always great at doing the same thing over and over, especially when it comes to holidays. I usually like to mix things up and visit new places, rather than sticking to tried-and-tested favourites. But I could visit Stewarts Bay – and Stewarts Bay Beach House – a million times and not get bored with that mesmerising view.
It will continue to take my breath away, no matter how many times I visit.
The author was a guest of Stewarts Bay Beach House.
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