Living on island time all part of the lure of Flinders
How many Tasmanians know about this small island with some of the best views – and the best people – in the world, only a stone’s throw from their front door? SNEAK PEEK >>
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“THIS here is the best view in the world.”
Chris ‘Rockjaw’ Rhodes isn’t exaggerating as we take in the 360-degree view from his favourite lookout on Vansittart Island – a 600-hectare island between Flinders and Cape Barron islands surrounded by white sandy beaches and granite headlands.
The love for Flinders Island and its surrounds practically drips off Rockjaw as he cruises over granite hills, waterlogged swamps and sandy beaches as part of a mini ‘history’ tour of the tiny island originally named Gun Carriage Island.
A fishing and hunting tour guide of 20+ years, Rockjaw has big plans for the island including regular music festivals, glamping and history tours.
It’s just a taste of what’s to come on my five days exploring Flinders Island and meeting the locals who love their little slice of paradise.
Meandering along a dirt driveway and arriving at a stunning country farmhouse, a beaming Wendy Jubb-Stoney waves hello; the friendly greeting immediately making me feel at home.
Cooma House will be my home for the next two days, also known as Flinders Island Gourmet Retreat – both a B&B-style accommodation plus a cooking school.
Training alongside some of Australia’s most well-known chefs, Wendy decided to combine her interest and skills in the kitchen, her love of Flinders Island and living off the land into a unique luxury tourist offering.
When the 15-acre property came up for sale at Badger Corner at Lady Barron, Wendy knew it was where she and husband Graeme should retire – the path down to the beach the same she used to take as a little girl to wait for her dad to return from his Cape Barren Island mail run.
It’s been a tough 18 months, with Covid separating the couple for the most part with Graeme continuing to run their other business, Stockyard Creek, a well-known retreat in the Victorian High Country.
So when guests come to stay, Wendy treats them like family.
And through her personalised itinerary for the one-day cooking school, sharing insights and history of Flinders Island and also taking an interest in my own life that I truly get the ‘retreat’ part of the title.
After browsing the many books dedicated to Flinders Island history in the Cooma House library, Wendy tells me if I really want to get a taste of local island life, it’s at the Furneaux Tavern on raffle night.
“See?” she tells me as she stops me at the top step and beckons behind me. “The tavern with the best view in Australia.”
It seems like every local on the island is gathered around the pool table at the Furneaux Tavern – including Rockjaw, perched on a bar stool laying out his ticket stubs.
Wednesday nights are a popular night to eat at the pub: It’s the day of the week ‘the barge’ arrives with the week’s food supplies for the island, and the oysters are a deliciously fresh entree.
The ‘Battered Flinders Island Flake’ – locally caught gummy shark – was among the best tasting fish I’d ever eaten … and I’m including freshly caught North Queensland barramundi on that list.
The following day after picking up a friend from the airport and gathering our weekend supplies from the local IGA supermarket, we travelled north to our next stop – Palana Beach House, a beautifully rustic shack overlooking yet another stunning white sand beach.
It’s here we truly appreciate what “living on island time” is all about on Flinders – with both of us getting the best night’s sleep we’ve had in months as the waves crashed on the shore below.
After enjoying a cooked breakfast on the deck as the sun peeked through the overcast clouds, on the locals’ recommendation we headed to Killiecrankie in search of the elusive ‘diamond’.
The small pocket of Flinders Island is famous for the abundance of topaz found in Killiecrankie Bay, with my friend and I returning to the beach house three hours later – sunburnt but satisfied with our treasure found scavenging the rockpools and sandy shores.
Upon dusk, a walk by the hilly roadside was in store as the true island locals came out to say hello; hundreds of wombats and wallabies quietly grazing in the lush green fields.
The perfect way to end our island adventure was the must-stop at The Flinders Wharf, opened in 2019 by the Whitemark waterfront.
On Island Time chefs Mikey Yeo and Ronan Sherry offered a tasting of that week’s menu – yes, it changes weekly – focusing on locally caught seafood and Flinders Island produce, and wow does it seriously impress.
Flinders crayfish pani puri, with citrus and coastal herbs. Boags battered gummy shark. Bridport octopus. Boomer Bay oysters. Island honey soy dressing. It’s all local here, and it’s all delicious.
As the small Sharp Airlines plane took off back towards Hobart, I wondered just how many other Tasmanians know about this small island dishing up some of the best views – and the best people – in the world, only a stone’s throw from their front door.
MAKE A NOTE:
- Flinders Island Gourmet Retreat is at 180 Badger Corner Rd, Lady Barron. Rooms start at $250 per person per night, breakfast included (or $350/night for solo travellers). For cooking school rates and special group deals, visit flindersislandgourmetretreat.com.au
- Palana Beach House is located at the northern tip of Flinders Island, north of Killicrankie. The 2-bedroom house sleeps up to five guests and is $308/night on Airbnb.
- The Furneaux Tavern is located at 11 Franklin Parade, Lady Barron. Open for meals 7 days a week and accommodation with 12 on-site units, suited to family and fishing groups. Visit furneauxtavern.com.au
- The Flinders Wharf is at 16 Esplanade, Whitemark. Open Thursdays and Fridays 3-9pm, Saturday 12pm-10pm and Sunday 11am-3pm. Visit onislandtime.com.au/wharf
- Rockjaw Tours offers fishing, hunting and history tours and special charters. Visit rockjawtours.com.au
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