Top Tassie chef has other fish to fry

Knowing how hard it is to source fresh and sustainably caught seafood, acclaimed chef Ali Currey-Voumard is offering Hobartians the chance to sample some lesser-known species, writes Amanda Vallis.

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WHEN I first moved to Tasmania three years ago I rented an office space in town that was located above a restaurant.

I arrived early one morning and as I entered the office I caught a glimpse of the chef from the restaurant in the car park chatting to someone in a big van and handing over a wad of cash. Initially I thought I might be witnessing some kind of covert deal until, moments later, the driver pulled out a big crate of fish in exchange for the money.

It wasn’t long before I myself began brokering similar exchanges to ensure my own supply of fresh, locally caught seafood at home.

I tracked down friends of friends who spent their weekends fishing to see if I could buy some of their catch, ordered locally caught frozen octopus in bulk and traded homegrown veggies for sea-urchin roe and abalone from a friend who is a professional diver.

Being an island state, when I moved to Tasmania I assumed that locally caught seafood would become a central part of my diet, but in fact I eat less seafood on a weekly basis than ever before.

While there are a select few quality fishmongers around the place who do make a point of selling locally sourced and sustainable options, some considerable effort on behalf of the consumer is required to seek them out.

Selling lesser-known seafood species is also a challenge for fishmongers because unfortunately the demand just isn’t there, with the majority of customers opting for popular (and familiar) cuts and types of fish.

Former Agrarian Kitchen head chef Ali Currey-Voumard is now offering Hobartians the chance to try some lesser-known seafood at her Sun Day Fish pop-up at Hobart’s Hamlet Cafe. Picture: MATHEW FARRELL

Having observed this conundrum since moving back to Hobart four years ago, former Agrarian Kitchen Eatery head chef Ali Currey-Voumard was inspired to launch her latest venture, Sun Day Fish.

“I want to show people that lesser known, sustainably-sourced seafood species can be simply prepared, super tasty and affordable,” she says.

“I also want to do what I can to drive up demand so that it’s easier for local fishmongers to make it available for locals to buy and cook at home.”

On the Sun Day Fish Instagram profile, Ali’s mission statement is articulated as follows:

“Our aspiration is to give our community the most delicious kind of access to lesser known breeds of fish. So every week I’ll be cooking a different dish with different fish.”

Sun Day Fish is operating every Sunday out of Hamlet Cafe (though they will be closed on Sunday, January 31, and reopen Sunday, February 7) with five per cent of sales donated to the Australian Marine Conservation Society.

Ali’s Fried Mussel Sandwich which features succulent, crispy, batterered mussels on a fresh Pigeon Whole bun with onion, celery and house-made ranch dressing. Picture: Chris Kidd

I arrive right on opening on Ali’s first day of service and there is a line already starting to form.

On the menu today is a fried mussel sandwich, an Albacore tuna salad and hot chips, all available for takeaway only (perfect for picnics by the rivulet).

I order one of each at the ordering window.

“Mussels are so affordable and nutritious and a really great way to feed a large group of people,” Ali says.

“Their production also involves minimal impact on the environment as they filter feed which means no additional or synthetic feed is added to the ocean in order to farm them.”

Sourced from East Coast producer Spring Bay Mussels via local seafood supplier Ashmore Foods, these mussels have been farmed on long lines or racks in the sea which has a negligible effect on surrounding species.

Australian-based, not-for-profit goodfish.org.au has a handy sustainable seafood guide, which classes mussels in their green “better choice” category.

By comparison, other farmed seafood species such as Atlantic salmon are marked red and included in their “say no” category.

Ali has steamed the mussels first then dusted them with milk and flour before deep frying to create a succulent flesh and crispy battered exterior.

Served in a Pigeon Whole bun with onion, celery and house-made ranch dressing, it’s an addictive combination.

Ali’s fresh and flavoursome Albacore and Tomato Salad, featuring locally caught tuna marinated in lemon, rosemary, garlic and anchovy which is tossed together with local tomatoes and a few different types of basil. Picture: CHRIS KIDD

For the salad, Ali has specifically chosen locally caught Albacore tuna as it is a more sustainable choice compared with the popular yellow fin and blue fin varieties.

“Albacore tuna doesn’t take as long to grow as other varieties so stocks are higher and it is also not as popular in international markets,” Ali says.

“When it’s targeted with a line it can mean minimal bycatch.”

Ali has marinated the tuna in lemon, rosemary, garlic and anchovy that “cooks” the flesh ever-so slightly.

Tossed together with local tomatoes and a few different types of basil, it is beautifully fresh and flavoursome.

Ali’s triple-cooked, super crispy, chunky chips. Picture: CHRIS KIDD

Ali’s triple cooked chips made from Tasmanian Kennebec potatoes are the sort of homemade chips I always aspire to cook but can never achieve – chunky, skin on and super crispy.

With Ali whipping up new dishes every week plus batch brew coffee and locally made Banda Bottle sodas and tonics, I can see Sun Day Fish becoming a regular Sunday ritual.