TasWeekend: Wattlebanks serving up homely fare in historic Richmond village
With his food van proving hugely popular at multiple food events and functions around the city, Rodney Dann has branched out and opened a retail location to serve up his tastebud tempters.
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IT’S hard to believe that this time five years ago there wasn’t a regular evening market in Hobart.
It all kicked off with the Hobart Twilight Market in October 2014 and the scene soon grew to include Street Eats @ Franko in 2016. The new Mona offering in the CBD, In the Hanging Garden, also promises to have night markets in the near future.
Back when it all started at the twilight market in Sandy Bay, there was a new fish and chip food truck during the inaugural season — Wattlebanks.
Serving up fresh, delicious Tasmanian seafood, the van has gone on to be a very popular offering found at many of the city’s food events and functions ever since.
Owner and chef Rodney Dann — who you may also know as the husband of state Opposition Leader Rebecca White — said he had been on the hunt for a retail location when the old Stone and Barrow site in Richmond came up for rent and he snapped it up straight away.
And you can see why — it’s a beautiful setting.
On the day my husband and I visit, the surrounding gardens are still looking rather autumnal with shades of orange and green.
Despite the gorgeous location, the site has struggled to keep any tenant long-term in recent years.
“It’s been a big discussion point from the locals coming in,” Dann says. “Unfortunately they’ve lost a bit of faith in it over the last few years.”
Hoping to restore the site to its former glory days when it was the Richmond Wine Centre, Wattlebanks’ motto of “Tasmania’s finest ingredients on your plate” has been carried through to the new cafe, which presents a relatively simple, homely menu.
My husband and I visit for lunch on a Wednesday afternoon and perch ourselves on two bar seats overlooking the front of house section — all the other tables are taken.
We decide to order a few bits and pieces to share — my favourite way of dining — and we pick our way through it all.
Arancini is a firm favourite of mine, and the best I’ve ever had in Hobart was actually at a stall at the Hobart Twilight Market, though I don’t realise the connection until speaking to Dann after our visit.
Wattlebanks’ leek and three cheese variety is just what I was hoping for — not too heavy on the leek and so wonderfully cheesy and salty. The paprika mayo is the perfect accompaniment.
Given the business’s reputation for delicious seafood, we order the salt and pepper calamari, another classic, favourite dish.
The squid is clearly uber-fresh and the coating is just enough to make it a little crispy without overdoing it.
Forgoing a sweet treat, we opt for the Coal Valley cheese platter instead.
It’s generous at just $16 per person, and we get one serving which is brimming with local produce.
Among the cheddar, blue cheese, dried figs and apricots, quince paste and chutneys, the highlight is the triple cream brie from Coal River Farm only a few minutes away from where we’re sitting.
Dann says almost five years in the food truck catering business has given him the chance to forge connections with some of the state’s top producers and he now showcases their wares in the cafe.
“I’ve got to know them and who I like from having the food van at their businesses, so I’m just repaying a bit of the generosity they showed me,” he says.
Picnic hampers are also available to take away if you prefer to venture down to the Richmond Bridge of the village green, or even just set-up with a blanket on the grounds outside the cafe.
It is very family friendly, with plenty of high chairs and even a basket full of toys at the rear.
This is an element of the food business that’s relatively new to Dann, who became a father to daughter Mia just over two and a half years ago.
“We’re open 9-4 which is really catered to that day trading where people are just looking to get out of the house and we’ve got all that space outside as an asset,” he says.
“It’s safe for kids to run around and it’s not something I would have seen before having a child. It definitely opens your eyes up.”
We plan to return with our little one in tow to sit among the silver birches and feast on Tasmanian cheese and wine.
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