Food review: Hobart is becoming the land of the rising ramen

Hobart’s Tonkotsu Ramen Bar reminds food writer Amanda Vallis of the sorts of ramen bars she frequented in Japan.

Hobart’s Tonkotsu Ramen Bar’s Black Ramen is one of six different ramens the Hobart eatery has on its menu. Picture: EDDIE SAFARIK

A GOOD bowl of steaming hot ramen is one of life’s greatest pleasures. On a recent trip to Japan my appreciation of this steamy, noodly, soupy concoction was cemented even further as my husband and I took it upon ourselves to search out the best ramen joint in each town we visited. A line out the door was the key indication we looked for in deciding on our target.

Tonkotsu Ramen Bar on Harrington St reminds me of the sorts of ramen bars we frequented in Japan. We learnt quickly that the lower the fuss meant the better the ramen, and that rings true here.

The shopfront hole in the wall is modest with minimal seating (including bar seating at the window for individual diners after a quick bite) and orders are made at the counter from A3 laminated menus that display photos of each of the dishes.

Hobart’s Tonkotsu Ramen Bar’s modest, minimalist interior reminds Amanda Vallis of the ramen bars she frequented on a recent trip to Japan. Picture: EDDIE SAFARIK

The shop wall is covered in bright, playful cartoon illustrations of ramen and all its accoutrements, along with bold Japanese script. Staff are super friendly and inviting, and food is served quickly. The venue isn’t licensed but there are an array of interesting Japanese soft drinks and cordials in the fridge, including cans of fizzy white grape or fuji apple juice.

We arrive just after 5pm on a weeknight with a tired toddler in tow and a staff member appears immediately with a high chair, making us feel immediately welcome.

There are six different types of ramen available on the menu, including Tsukeman, a different iteration of ramen that I became quite fond of in Japan, where the noodles are served cold alongside the usual additions such as sliced pork, boiled egg and seaweed, with a separate bowl of thick, hot broth for dipping.

Tonkotsu’s Black Ramen which includes hot pork broth filled with wheat noodles and topped with sliced pork, half-boiled egg, seaweed and fresh green shallots, is infused with black garlic and has an additional topping of sliced cloud ear mushrooms is one of several ramen dishes the restaurant offers. Picture: EDDIE SAFARIK

The process of winding the noodles around chopsticks and then coating them in the hot broth before eating feels like an exercise in mindfulness, as it requires all of my concentration to avoid making a total mess while also slowing down that rate at which I am able to consume the meal.

As much as I love Tsukeman, on this chilly Hobart evening I can think of nothing better than a steaming bowl of noodle soup, so I opt for the classic bowl of hot pork broth filled with wheat noodles and topped with sliced pork, half-boiled egg, seaweed and fresh green shallots.

I opt for the “Black Ramen”, which is infused with black garlic and has an additional topping of sliced cloud ear mushrooms. The pork broth is rich, fragrant and nourishing, the cornerstone of any good ramen and the toppings are equally good.

“Tonkotsu” is the Japanese word for broth made with pork bones and marrow, so it’s clear that broth quality is a priority here. One of the staff members brings us an extra little bowl for our daughter so we are able to spoon noodles out for her that she promptly slurps up whole (a skill she mastered in Japan that is hilarious to watch).

Tonkotsu’s crunchy Pumpkin buns are filled with sweet black beans. Picture: EDDIE SAFARIK

Along with ramen, there are also seven different types of donburi or rice bowls on offer, each with a different topping, such as crispy deep fried chicken, tofu or pork mince. My husband opts for the Gyudon which is rice topped with sliced beef, brown onion and an onsen tomago or half-boiled egg (i.e. very soft boiled) designed to be swirled around to form part of the sauce. It is mild and uncomplicated in flavour and again, feels quite nourishing to eat.

We also order a serve each of vegetable gyoza and pumpkin buns. The vegetable gyoza are nice, but not the best we’ve had, and the pumpkin buns, while interesting, are probably not something we would order again. They are sweet with a sort of shiny, crunchy exterior filled with sweet black beans.

Tonkotsu’s Vegetable gyoza which are a kind of Japanese dumpling. Picture: EDDIE SAFARIK

We would definitely come back here for the ramen, though, particularly to give some of the other variations a whirl such as miso, karajuchi (spicy) or chuka (seafood). All priced between $14.50 and $16.50, it’s an affordable and kid-friendly night out, which are two key boxes that we like to tick at this point in our lives.

While there’s no sign of a line out the door here as yet (there are only a couple of other diners there with us), I dare say it won’t be long until word gets out among ramen lovers of Hobart.