Little laneway eatery is a real hidden gem
Devonport’s Pam’s Bottles & Cups is a terrific little wine bar whose focus is more about “food with booze” rather than “booze with food”, writes Alix Davis
Food and Wine
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Blame it on Pamela Anderson. Or, more specifically, Pam’s Baywatch swimsuit – which is the same shade of red as the laminate bench at this tiny wine bar in a Devonport laneway. However, that red bench was inspired, not by a Baywatch swimsuit, but rather by the shade used on the cover of Africola, a cookbook by Duncan Welgemoed, named for his highly-regarded Adelaide restaurant and where Pam’s owner and chef Denni Elyse used to work.
“We wanted a bit of an 80s vibe,” says Denni of the space, “and a red bench was non-negotiable”. Friends who visited loved the red bench and began calling it ‘Pam’s place’ and before they knew it, Pam’s Bottles and Cups was named.
Grab a seat at a table – either inside or out – and let the Pam’s experience unfold. Front-of-house manager Mitchell Berwick is enthusiastic and knowledgeable about wines – which range from “boujie” to “classic” with a focus on low-intervention, and I recommend telling him what you like and then allow him to make all the tough decisions. He’s previously worked at Havilah and The Conservatory, so is no slouch in the drinks department.
In addition to wine, there are Tasmanian spirits and sophisticated alcohol-free options. There’s no menu here, just a suggestion of snacks or a “feed me” menu for $55 per person. We opt for the feed me – of course – and are not disappointed.
Pam’s kitchen is tiny – about the size of an average home laundry – but the outsize flavours of the food that comes out of it belies its diminutive dimensions.
The first dish to hit our table is a plate of pumpkin wedges – roasted to creamy perfection and sitting on a bed of tahini sauce. Pickled onion provides a bit of tang, as does the chilli crisp drizzled with a liberal hand.
Pumpkin seeds add a bit of crunch and each mouthful is a tasty blend of flavours and textures. Devonport lies firmly in potato-growing territory and a bowl of local potatoes – roasted in the Gozny oven that lives outside – are carby perfection, elevated by a generous flurry of parmesan and a hint of truffle. These would make a great side dish to any meal, but we eat them with enthusiasm by themselves, relishing each piping hot mouthful and enjoying the hint of char that burnishes a few pieces.
Hot on the heels of the spuds is a Cape Grim steak – seared to medium rare and with a marble score of 2, the steak is served sliced, making it an easy dish to share between the four of us. It comes with a rich jus and a daub of properly hot English mustard – just enough to clear the sinuses.
A plate of fluffy flatbread arrives – just in time to swipe through the various sauces. It’s pouring rain outside, but the vibe inside is one of bonhomie, with tables in the small space filled with drinkers and diners enjoying their evening.
Owner Denni Elyse opened Pam’s in August 2023, having returned to Devonport, and family, after years cooking in fine dining establishments. She wanted to open a wine bar that was “food with booze rather than booze with food” and Pam’s certainly fits the bill. Rather than the fiddly plates of her fine dining background, Pam’s offers vegetable-forward share plates that focus on creating a feeling of feasting.
The second main is a half roast chicken, with charred crispy skin and a sauce that could be eaten with a spoon. We try to guess the flavours – chef Denni tells us it’s a glorious melange of curry leaves, brown sugar, coriander seeds, garlic and star anise. The chicken has been brined for 24 hours before being roasted and the sauce (grab a spoon!) is all the cooking juices fortified with butter. It’s delicious and in a very strong field, is probably our favourite dish of the evening.
A final side of roasted beetroot with sauteed leeks, pistachios and a scattering of dill on a goat cheese sauce is a colourful finish to the meal.
Each dish was full of complex flavours and, while there was a Middle Eastern vibe running through it, I’m going to call it modern Tasmanian. The only thing missing here is a little something sweet to finish with – but that’s a want not a need as our appetites have been well satiated. Next time you’re catching the Spirit, I recommend spending the night in Devonport and making a beeline for Pam’s, it’s a decision you won’t regret.
PAM’S BOTTLES & CUPS
6B Edward St, Devonport (enter via Rooke Lane)
Opening hours: Thurs-Fri, 5pm-late, Sat-Sun, 2pm-late
On the menu
Feed me for $55 per person. Roast pumpkin with tahini sauce, Cape Grim beef, roast potatoes with parmesan.
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