All signs point to great waves this weekend

Career surfer Mike Perry has had an in-depth look at the weather and he likes what he sees as far as weekend waves go.

A surfer takes off at Sunrise Beach as a southerly swell from an east coast low pushes big waves into southeast Queensland earlier this month. Photo Lachie Millard

G’day surfers.

Early on we were blessed with another week of beautiful winter weather but, sadly, not much surf.

At week’s end prospects brightened somewhat when a trough between us and New Caledonia brought some waves.

This east swell is being complemented by a rising south and between the two, surf will be on tap this weekend.

Here’s the forecast.

Agnes Water to Coolangatta

Saturday

Two days of south to southeast winds over 20 knots have helped bring up swell.

That, along with the aforementioned east swell is delivering a combined surf up to 1.5m.

While the open beaches are biggest, with winds remaining fresh, the points will be the pick today.

Caution is advised on the open beaches where rips and currents will be strong.

Partly cloudy skies will not deliver rain, but we can expect 21C of filtered sunlight.

On the Gold Coast, Fresh south to southwest winds early will make for some sizey, clean beach breaks. Experienced surfers only please.

Waves will be above 1.5m and the mixed swell will make for sets arriving from unexpected angles at times.

Rips and currents will be bad and those winds will get up to 25 knots through the day.

Point surfers will have a great day, with heaps of sand and generally offshore conditions all day.

The sun will be occasionally covered by clouds but no rain is expected.

Top temp will be 22C.

Sunday

Lighter winds from the west to southwest early will benefit the beach breaks.

The waves there will probably be anywhere from 1 to 1.5m. Rips and currents will remain a problem.

However, the mixed swell will have created some great new banks, well worth inspecting by the experienced surfers among us.

The points remain a fun alternative with waves in the 1m, or more, range with good shape.

Afternoon winds will be southeast and fairly light, so the points will be best all day.

Rain’s not a chance and only a few clouds will mar the 21C day.

Gold Coast surfers will find fresher southwest winds early, but conditions in that wind are still excellent almost everywhere.

Surf on the beaches will still be larger than the points (1.5m or more) but afternoon winds from the east to southeast will ruin it.

That’s when the point breaks will shine, with waves up to 1.5m and excellent conditions.

The sun will rule and the top temperature will hit 21C while the water is still around 20C.

All in all it’s shaping up to be a fun weekend with quality surf and a mixed swell.

That’s a recipe for a quality weekend. Enjoy!

THIS WEEK’S TIP

What makes swell?

In the world of surfing, waves are caused by wind.

Other types of waves are caused by earthquakes etc. but for our purposes wind is the cause of surfing waves.

It doesn’t necessarily take a strong wind to bring us big surf.

Just steady winds over a long stretch of water for a long time.

This is “fetch”.

Strong winds over a short span of water for a short time do bring up swell but it will be uneven, rough and rippy.

The long distance swells also have duration because they’ve travelled a great distance to arrive here.

The short distance swells are easily knocked down by opposing winds and lack of sustained generating force.

They’re still fun for many, but short fetched swells don’t provide the quality associated with our famous surfing in Queensland.

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