Black tie has returned to its most mature and classical versions

For a handful of guys, the order to attend an event in ‘black tie’ inspires dread — but the dress code is far less inflexible than you might think.

When done correctly, opting for clean black-and-white tailoring is a failsafe approach.

For a handful of guys, the order to attend an event in ‘black tie’ inspires dread — but the dress code is far less inflexible than you might think. 2024 has seen menswear loosen its top button; modern occasionwear, perhaps, has never been more playful.

As more and more celebrities forego dress shirts and neckties at their own formal events, we’re opening our eyes to all the ways you can put a spin on the traditional suit.

But what, exactly, does the traditional black tie suit look like? Funnily enough, the now-formal dress code originated as a semi-formal alternative for dinner wear.

“It came about in the late-19th century,” Patrick Johnson, founder of tailor and clothier P.Johnson tells us. “If you’re American you’d call the suit a tuxedo. Everywhere else, you’d call it a dinner suit.”

Certain accessories were also considered non-negotiable, such as a cummerbund or waistcoat, and, of course, a bow tie. “The shoes were typically a patent leather opera pump style, with a grosgrain bow,” Johnson continues.

We’re opening our eyes to all the ways you can put a spin on the traditional suit.

Needless to say, you won’t find many men these days answering a black tie invitation in a cummerbund and heels, though a penguin suit has, for many, remained the default response. Not that there’s anything wrong with the classic look; Johnson acknowledges that, when done correctly, opting for clean black-and-white tailoring is a failsafe approach.

“The whole look has strongly returned to its most mature and classical versions. The cuts have also become more elegant and natural, and the lapels have returned to normal and wider profiles.”

The key, then, is a suit that’s smart, but not stuffy. Johnson notes that men can play around with black tie by switching an Oxford for a loafer or heeled boot, as well as experimenting with colour.

“Keeping it sophisticated is important and there are many tasteful interpretations which are a little more spirited and playful. Some as simple as tonal midnight blue, tonal dark brown or greens for example.”

Expect the guests at the 16th GQ MOTY, held this year at Rozelle’s White Bay Power Station, to put modern black tie on full display. Among the guests Johnson is dressing for the night? Count Nikolai of Monpezat, member of the Danish royal family, and actor Lincoln Younes. As for the rest, well, you’ll have to wait and see.

Follow all the action from the 2024 GQ MOTY awards at GQ.com.au/MOTY

Originally published as Black tie has returned to its most mature and classical versions