Qatar’s World Cup’s fantasy sits far from reality

Nothing is ever quite as it seems in Qatar.

Fireworks explode around a replica of the World Cup trophy during the opening ceremony at the Al-Bayt Stadium, north of Doha. Picture: AFP

Nothing is ever quite as it seems here in Qatar and the latest ­illusion came in the form of aerial shots of the giant Bedouin-style tent that is the Al-Bayt Stadium. For the television audience that tuned into the opening ceremony, the stadium was not surrounded by sand and rubble but a mountainous Arabian landscape bathed in moonlight.

Such fakery was, of course, consistent with so many elements of this World Cup, and certainly with a pre-tournament party populated by fans from the 32 participating countries who received free trips for singing, dancing and waving their flags on cue.

Presumably they were looked after extremely well but here, at a football stadium like no other, they have signs not just for VIPs but VVIPs.

There was no shortage of high rollers in high Rollers – the British luxury car brand’s SUV seems to be very popular among the wealthier Qataris – and a brief chat with a guarded chap marshalling the helipad suggested the most ­important people of all had no ­intention of enduring the huge traffic jams that had built up more than four hours before kick-off.

It would seem safe to assume that the full red-carpet treatment was reserved for the Qatari royals and their guests, among them David Beckham and a stellar cast of former World Cup stars such as Cafu, Ronaldo and Marcel Desailly. Not to mention Saudi crown prince Mohammed bin Salman and Gianni Infantino, a FIFA president it now transpires may have pinched that astonishing “I feel” speech off a former New York governor.

Infantino must surely have seen the irony in the literature ­released by FIFA about the opening ceremony when it was being staged in a country that has made no effort to relax its laws on homosexuality in the 12 years since it was awarded the World Cup.

The tournament was described as “a gathering for all mankind, an invitation to come together as one, bridging all differences with ­humanity, respect and inclusion”. The people of the world, it continued, are part of “one big tribe”. “The Earth is the tent in which we all live.”

Fans gather to watch a live broadcast of the opening ceremony of the Qatar 2022 World Cup at the Corniche of Doha. Picture: AFP

The ceremony was relatively entertaining, and so it should have been. According to some reports, it cost more than the Americans spend on the halftime show at the Super Bowl, somewhere in the ­region of $18m.

Of course, at a World Cup that has cost the Qataris about $355m to host, that amounts to a grain of sand in a desert of expense. Seven new stadiums, with all eight ­venues boasting airconditioning to keep the players cool. Inside this stadium it was decidedly chilly but the atmosphere was half-decent to begin with even if tickets were still available for about $106 on the ­official resale platform an hour ­before kick-off.

Ecuador had a significant contingent behind one of the goals, while directly behind the other was a group of maybe 1000 Qatar fans being directed by a couple of chaps who were permitted by the stewards to stand on the inner perimeter wall.

It was as well they did, mind, given the very obvious conservatism of the Qataris who probably made up about 50 per cent of the crowd. If they displayed a sense of excitement when Ecuador had that early goal ruled out for offside, they soon appeared to lose interest. In fact a halftime scoreline of 2-0 to Ecuador persuaded many not to even return after the break, with the ground little more than half-full by the time they ­announced an attendance of 67,372 midway through the second half.

A lack of experience among staff was starting to become a cause of some concern by Sunday night. While the conditions for fans at this match were perfectly fine, there were reports of crushing at the main fan zone in Doha. “It’s dangerous now,” one observer said. “They really can’t handle the crowds.”

There are also doubts being ­expressed about the new $64bn metro system and whether it will be able to cope once more fans have arrived. Whatever image of Qatar they want us to see, a contrast between fantasy and reality remains.

The Times