Wine: Whicher Ridge

Cathy and Neil Howard cumulatively took more than 40 years to establish Whicher Ridge. James Halliday gives his verdict.

The paths followed by would-be vignerons are many and various. The common thread is the discovery that planting the first vines takes longer than anticipated; it’s even slower for the first glass to arrive on the table. I’m not talking about virtual wineries, where the grapes are purchased and the wines contract-made. With good advice, that might take six months.

Cathy and Neil Howard cumulatively took more than 40 years to establish Whicher Ridge – or, on the shortest view, a mere six years. Each had worked for 20 years or more as a viticulturist (Neil) and winemaker (Cathy). Neil set foot on the soil of the Pyrenees in the mid-1980s, working for Taltarni, Blue Pyrenees Estate and later Mount Avoca for 12 years before moving to Margaret River in 1998, initially managing Sandalford’s vineyard and then developing and managing several smaller vineyards in the region. Cathy left Tasmania in 1995 after working for Pipers Brook Vineyard, and over the next seven years was a winemaker for Orlando and St Hallett. In 2002 she moved to Margaret River to become chief winemaker for Watershed before managing a large contract winemaking business.

The planning and development of Whicher Ridge in Geographe began in 2003, the 10,000 vines in the 5ha vineyard planted by hand. The first release of sauvignon blanc was in 2008, cabernet sauvignon first released in 2010. They supplement the estate plantings by purchasing chardonnay from Margaret River, and riesling and shiraz from Frankland River. The cellar door is manned by Cathy, the vineyard and farm by Neil.

As well as presenting the wines, Cathy guides visitors through the adjacent wine sensory garden. For each grape variety there are flowers, fruit trees, herbs and vegetables used to describe the aromas and flavours found in the matching varietal wine. More at whicherridge.com.au

2015 WHICHER RIDGE GEOGRAPHE SAUVIGNON BLANC

Part barrel-fermented in French oak, aged on lees for 12 months. A striking wine, its complexity on the bouquet matched by the raw power and drive of the palate. The wine is built around a scaffold of minerally/chalky acidity, the composition of fruit flavours of less importance than the structure and texture. 12.8% alc, screwcap

95 points, drink to 2020, $26

2013 WHICHER RIDGE FRANKLAND RIVER SHIRAZ

Medium-bodied, with deceptive power, length and fragrance. Distinctly savoury, but intense blue and black fruits emerge on the finish and aftertaste. Complex techniques include draining some actively fermenting juice into new oak, the remainder into tank, the next day returning the juice from tank and barrels to the fermenter. 13.5% alc, screwcap

95 points, drink to 2035, $34

2013 WHICHER RIDGE ELEVATION GEOGRAPHE CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Deep crimson-purple; a distinguished cabernet. The bouquet is a complex amalgam of blackcurrant fruit, quality French oak and earthy tannins. The vinification parallels the shiraz, except for the oak (American for the shiraz). 13.5% alc, screwcap

96 points, drink to 2038, $39