Wine: St Hallett Single Vineyard

A succession of impressive winemakes have found their way to St Hallett, in the Barossa Valley, since the 1970s.

St Hallett Single Vineyard wines. Picture: Guy Bailey

St Hallett is a very special place. Yes, it's a winery in the Barossa Valley established in 1912, but it's more than that. Its modern-day fabric has been woven by a succession of gifted individuals, commencing with Rocky O'Callaghan, who joined as winemaker in the early '70s, remaining there until he established Rockford in 1983-84.

In 1988 Bob McLean arrived; a marketing genius with a booming voice and a ready chuckle, he took St Hallett Old Block Shiraz from a treasure known only to South Australians to a national icon. Stuart Blackwell joined in 1972, but in the late '70s he flew to South Africa to broaden his experience, thence to Zimbabwe to build a winery for Mukuyu and develop its vineyards, returning to St Hallett in 1982, becoming senior winemaker in the wake of O'Callaghan's departure.

The last piece of the human jigsaw puzzle was put in place in 2007 when the widely travelled Toby Barlow moved from sister winery Mitchelton to work alongside Blackwell.

All shared an unconditional love of the Barossa and Eden Valleys and of the grapegrowers with whom they worked. I have a vivid memory of a 2013 helicopter trip on a perfect, blue-sky day when I was part of a group that descended into the various backyards of their most valued shiraz growers. Hence the Single Vineyard releases that stand alongside the Old Block and Blackwell Shirazs. Hence, too, a virtual reality tour as we recently skipped around the chalk-marked winery floor tasting 2016 shirazs from 23 vineyards on 11 parishes (districts) spread across the Barossa and Eden Valleys.

We were also given a presentation of the truly fascinating Barossa Grounds Project, by some distance the best analysis of the terroir of a wine region I have ever encountered, here or overseas. It all makes sense.

2015 ST Hallett Single Vineyard Release Mattschoss Eden Valley Shiraz

Avant-garde winemaking in 3-tonne fermenters using partial whole-bunch carbonic maceration in various ways. It is as expressive as it is elegant, with a pinot-ish display of red fruits and spices on its long and silky palate, freshness and balance its watchwords. 13.5% alc, screwcap 96 points; drink to 2030; $50

2015 St Hallett Single Vineyard Release Scholz Estate Barossa Valley Shiraz

From the Ebenezer parish, spending 14 months in a mix of 25% to 30% new French oak, the remainder second use American. Blackberry, dark chocolate and a hint of eucalypt on the bouquet swell on the opulent and very long palate. 14.5% alc, screwcap 95 points; drink to 2040; $50

2015 St Hallett Single Vineyard Release Materne Barossa Valley Shiraz

From a vineyard on the banks of Greenock Creek, matured in 100% French oak, 35% new. Highly fragrant, with an echo of the ironstone in the soil.

It has a firm structure, but the balance means it will age with assured grace. 14.5% alc, screwcap 95 points; drink to 2040; $50