Wine: Sidewood Estate

Owen and Cassandra Inglis took a circuitous route in their wine journey.

Owen Inglis and his wife Cassandra took a circuitous route in their wine journey, ultimately leading to ownership of Sidewood Estate. Maybe it was written in the stars. Owen was born in Hong Kong but educated in South Australia, where he came to know every part of his aunt’s racehorse stud in the Adelaide Hills. He became a chartered accountant and worked for some years in the field. When he returned to Hong Kong in 1983 he joined his father’s business importing food and wine. In the fullness of time he became a qualified sommelier but it was a manufacturing business in China (which he started in 1993) that made his fortune and enabled him to train and own racehorses in Hong Kong.

Cassandra was born into a wine-loving family in Perth and began wine studies aged 18. She then became a globetrotter but stayed long enough in Santorini (why not?) to become manager of a successful wine bar. In 1994 she moved to Hong Kong, became a teacher at a prestigious international school, completed wine studies, obtained her certificate and married Owen.

A formidable team, they began planning their return to Australia in 2004, purchasing Ashwood (127ha, 35ha of vines and pasture for racehorses), planting an additional 22ha in 2015. In December 2012 they came home and in late 2013 acquired the 5ha Nairne Vineyard and 400-tonne winery (since increased to 1000 tonnes). The cellar door was opened in January 2014 at Maximillian’s at Verdun via a lease that included 5ha of vineyard. The final piece of the puzzle was the acquisition of a 25ha vineyard at Echunga in March 2016.

Chief winemaker Darryl Catlin and consultant viticulturist Mark Vella both have their own labels, Catlin and Vella Wines. When I visited Sidewood last December their wines were presented alongside those of Sidewood. Generous? Yes. Clever? Very.

2016 Sidewood Estate Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc

Estate-grown, selected from several sites. Free-run juice chilled, wild yeast, cool fermented in tank, kept on lees for four months to build mid-palate texture without compromising drive and length. Gold, National Wine Show 2016. 12.5% alc, screwcap

95 points, drink to 2017, $20.

2015 Sidewood Estate 777 Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir

Estate-grown using one of the newer Burgundy clone, hand-picked, wild yeast open-fermented with 25-40% whole bunches in two to five-tonne pots, extended maceration, pressed to French oak (15% new) for 10 months. Light, clear colour; highly fragrant red cherry/wild strawberry bouquet shapes the elegant palate. 12.5% alc, screwcap

95 points, drink to 2023, $35.

2015 Sidewood Estate Adelaide Hills Pinot Noir

Estate-grown Oberlin and Able clones, hand-picked, chilled for 24 hours, small batches of wild yeast, whole bunch and whole berry ferments, 12 months maturation in French oak (10% new). The spicy bouquet shows complex whole bunch aromas, the palate a savoury edge. 12.5% alc, screwcap

96 points, drink to 2025, $35.