Wine review: Krug 2002 vintage, rose and grand cuvee

Some may call the very idea of a Krug app shocking, if not profane.

Some may call the very idea of a Krug app shocking, if not profane. Marketing gone mad, stripping away the secrets of Krug's unique place in the Champagne universe.

Yet, as ever, there is nothing new under the sun. When the great English cricket commentator John Arlott wrote the book Krug: House of Champagne (1976) he disclosed that "Lately he [Paul Krug II] made up a blend for which a label was printed saying that it consisted of a choice of growths from 1970,'69,'68,'67,'66,'65 and'64. It was decided not to include that information because a vintage-conscious market... might think it was of lesser quality than that of a single year." When, 20 years or so later, Charles Heidsieck released its Mis en Cave trio 1992 (1991-based), 1993 (1992-based) and 1994 (1993-based), confusion reigned supreme, even when the dates of disgorgement were subsequently added. So Krug's decision was right - but move on another 20 years, open Krug's app, tap in the ID number (414082) on the back label, and you find the Grande Cuvee you are drinking is a blend of 142 wines vintaged between 2006 (the base wine) and 1990, utilising 44 per cent pinot noir, 35 per cent chardonnay and 21 per cent pinot meunier.

Small wonder that Paul Krug II famously said, "God makes the vintage wine, but I make the Grande Cuvee." Moreover, the Grande Cuvee is made first, the potential vintage release having to take its chances with the remaining base wine.

Paul Krug I's 10 children were a feisty lot, Joseph II spending six months in Australia in 1892 taking orders for Krug; Emma living to 101; and Charlotte setting off to see Afghanistan at the age of 94. If we could all drink as much Krug as we desired, reaching the age of 100 should be a doddle. And if the following prices seem high, compare them to those of Grand Cru Burgundy and First Growth Bordeaux.

2002 KRUG VINTAGE

A blend of 40% pinot noir, 39% chardonnay and 21% pinot meunier, aged on lees for 11 years before disgorgement in 2014. Charged with a swath of citrus and stone fruits, it has seamless purity, generosity and complexity. Thanks to precision vinification, there isn't a hair out of place on a palate of outstanding length. ID 414071 98 points; drink to 2027; $450

NV KRUG GRANDE CUVEE

By the standards of Krug, this is notably elegant, its freshness the keynote of an Olympian wine.

All about white flowers, citrus and brioche in a basket on a nearby table. The 2006 acidity of the base wine shows clearly, and the wine grows each time you taste it, its grip a firm handshake; looks you in the eye. ID 414082 97 points; drink to 2030; $327

NV KRUG ROSE

A blend of 59% pinot noir, 33% chardonnay and 8% pinot meunier, the base wine from 2006, and components back to 2000. Its wild strawberries are a celestial ambrosia. Burgundy masquerading as Champagne, the most outrageously seductive - and the greatest - rose of all. ID 413069 98 points; drink to 2030; $593