Why lemons are the one ingredient you should always reach for
In most recipes I find myself reaching for a lemon; it’s a supporting act that always adds life to the party
When life gives you lemons, make lemonade, the old saying goes. While optimistic, I’ve always felt this saccharine saying does not capture the true versatility and potential of the lemon. This little yellow orb has a way of elevating the mundane into something special. A squeeze of juice into a dressing, a rasp of zest on some grilled greens, a few slices under the skin of a roast chicken, a twist of peel in a classic martini – they add a layer of brightness and complexity. In most recipes I find myself reaching for a lemon; it’s a supporting act that always adds life to the party.
Lemons are the Sun’s love affair with the Earth, a heady Mediterranean romance captured in waxy yellow skin. Beneath it, the bitter pith and sharp juice are like the best kind of love: sweet and biting at once, invigorating, essential.
I recall the heady smell of citrus in the air one summer in Cyprus when the sun cast a soft, warm glow over everything. My partner and I had taken an afternoon stroll through the narrow, sunlit lanes of our village. We were captivated by the charm of the old stone houses, but it was a vibrant lemon tree, growing just beyond a high stone wall, that caught our eye. The tree, with its gnarled branches and rich green leaves, was laden with lemons, their bright yellow skins gleaming. It was too much to resist. I placed my partner on my shoulders and, with a gentle twist, she plucked a lemon from the tree. We took the prize back to our place and used it to make gin fizz and in a dinner of baked feta with oregano, peppers and olives.
The wonder of lemons lies in their versatility. They are as at home in a sweet dessert as they are in savoury dishes, and you can even use the leaves to wrap fish or cheese before grilling. Though they are not meant to be eaten, they lend a subtle fragrance, a hint of bitterness that tempers the richness of a grassy buffalo mozzarella. The cheese oozes lazily over the green leaves, absorbing the citrusy oils released by the oven’s heat, making it both indulgent and refreshingly light.
To try another lemon recipe, here’s my decidely easy lemon posset recipe.
Mozzarella baked on lemon leaves
Ask your greengrocer for lemon leaves for this recipe – or you make the dish without them, adding extra lemon zest.
Ingredients
- 300g mozzarella, drained and sliced
- 12 large lemon leaves
- 400g fresh broad beans, shelled
- 1 shallot, finely diced
- 50ml olive oil
- Handful parsley, finely sliced
- Handful broad bean leaves or pea shoots
- 25g preserved lemon, finely diced
- Zest and juice of ½ lemon
- Sea salt
Method
- Preheat your oven to 180C. Place a slice of mozzarella on the inside of each lemon leaf and fold the rest of the leaf over the top using the stem to pierce through the leaf to hold in place. Secure if required with a cocktail stick. These fragrant leaves will impart a subtle citrus aroma to the mozzarella as it bakes. Place on a baking tray; drizzle with a little olive oil and season with a pinch of sea salt.
- Heat a small pan with 20ml of olive oil and sweat the shallot with a pinch of salt for 6-8 minutes, until soft and translucent. Add the lemon zest and remove from the heat. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add the shelled broad beans and cook for 1 minute until tender but still bright green. Drain and rinse under cold water to stop the cooking process. If the beans are large, you may want to remove the tough outer skins to reveal the vibrant green beans inside.
- Bake the mozzarella-stuffed leaves for 6-8 minutes, or until the mozzarella is melted and starting to bubble.
- In a bowl, combine the cooked broad beans with the shallots, preserved lemon, parsley, the remaining olive oil and a pinch of sea salt. Toss gently to coat. Once the mozzarella is ready, remove it from the oven. Carefully lift the melted cheese and lemon leaves onto a serving platter. Scatter the dressed broad beans around the mozzarella, finishing with the broad bean leaves and a squeeze of lemon juice.
Serves 3-4