‘What I love most about this cheesecake is its imperfections’
Deceptively simple, that deeply burnished crown, almost charred, gives way to a creamy interior, intentionally undercooked, so that each bite slides between lightness and density.
La Viña sits unassumingly on a side street in the heart of San Sebastián’s old town, its modest charm reflected in its singular obsession with cheesecake. If I’m going to be honest, I am not generally a big fan of cheesecake, finding them either too sweet and cloying or too mundane. But this one is from San Sebastián. It’s Basque. And like everything in the region, it’s stubborn and unapologetic. At La Viña, you can feel the weight of history in its walls, where decades of the same humble ingredients have worked their magic, allowing the cake to speak for itself.
What I love most about this cheesecake is its imperfections. A crack on top, the uneven golden-brown, a hint of softness that suggests it might not be done but is, in fact, perfect.
Deceptively simple, that deeply burnished crown, almost charred, gives way to a creamy interior, intentionally undercooked, so that each bite slides between lightness and density. The key to the cheesecake is its simplicity, with only five ingredients: cheese, eggs, sugar, cream and cornflour, whisked together until velvety. With no crust to hide behind and no embellishments, the high heat of the oven caramelises the edges, while the middle remains soft, just set, and unashamedly rich. This version has a unique twist with the Manchego cheese, adding a subtle nutty flavour that beautifully complements the rich, creamy filling. The cheese embellishes the custard-like interior with a rich savoury note which balances the sweetness.
Try too my sizzling garlic Basque prawns.
Basque cheesecake
Ingredients
- 1kg cream cheese, softened
- 40g Manchego, finely grated
- 340g (1 1/3 cups) caster sugar
- 6g salt
- 30g cornflour
- 8 large eggs
- 1 large egg yolk
- 500ml cream
Method
- Preheat your oven to 190C and line a 25cm springform pan with parchment paper, allowing the paper to extend at least 5cm above the rim. This creates the classic uneven edges of the Basque cheesecake.
- In a large mixing bowl, combine the softened cream cheese, Manchego, cornflour, sugar and salt. Use a hand mixer or stand mixer to beat them together until creamy and smooth, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs and the extra yolk one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed to ensure everything is well combined. Once incorporated, pour in the cream and mix on low speed until just combined. The batter should be smooth, light, and slightly runny.
- Pour the batter into the prepared pan, ensuring it’s evenly distributed. Bake in the preheated oven for 45 to 50 minutes, or until the top is deeply golden brown and the centre still jiggles slightly when shaken. Allow the cheesecake to cool in the pan for at least 2 hours at room temperature. It will continue to set as it cools. It’s best served at room temperature, to highlight the texture of the creamy interior.
Serves 10-12