Use the best ingredients of the season to get into the spirit of autumnal cooking

The key to cooking mushrooms is giving them space in the pan so they caramelise rather than steam.

Mushroom pasta with a crunchy topping. Photo: Nikki To / TWAM

The first crisp air of autumn and the season’s rainfall bring one thing I love – pine mushrooms. Years ago I would head to NSW’s Southern Highlands, wandering the pine forests with my dog, foraging beneath the trees. There was something deeply romantic about it – baskets in hand, golden light filtering through the trees, the quiet thrill of spotting those distinct orange caps. After a good haul we’d light a fire, cook the mushrooms in butter, garlic and thyme, toast some bread, and pile them high. That ­ritual marked the start of the season for me.

Life looks different now with two little ones in tow, and slow mornings in the forest feel like a distant memory. But my love for mushrooms hasn’t changed. At my local Saturday market recently, I met Jess from Ruffle Farm, who invited me into their inner-city Sydney mushroom farm – an almost otherworldly space that’s bursting with colours, shapes and varieties. Up to a dozen types of mushrooms grow in every direction, a world unto itself. It feels just as magical as wandering the forest.

Inspired by mushroom season, today I’m celebrating the bounty with a creamy mushroom pasta. These days you don’t have to look far to find mixed mushrooms – oyster, shiitake, king brown and enoki are all readily available, each bringing its own character. You might even be lucky enough to find fresh pine mushrooms at your local greengrocer. A mix adds depth, texture and that unmistakable umami hit to this pasta. If fresh varieties are scarce, brown portobellos and rehydrated dried shiitakes (from the Asian aisle) work well too. Just skip the little white button mushrooms – they won’t bring the same intensity to the dish.

The key to cooking mushrooms is giving them space in the pan so they caramelise rather than steam. I loosen everything with a splash of pasta cooking water before stirring through spoonfuls of crème fraîche, coating it all in velvety richness. The result? A silky tangle of umami-rich pasta, ­finished with golden, crispy breadcrumbs for crunch.

Try too my autumn pear cake.

Mushrooms are the perfect seasonal ingredient. Photos: Nikki To / TWAM

Make a selection of different funghi to enhance the flavour of the dish.

Creamy mushroom pasta

Use wine in this recipe if you have a bottle open; otherwise, stock is a good substitute.

Ingredients

• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

• ¼ cup fresh breadcrumbs or panko 

• 200g long pasta (such as fettuccine or tagliatelle or your preference)

• 300g mixed mushrooms

• 2 garlic cloves, finely minced

• 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

• 2 tablespoons butter

• 60ml (¼ cup) white wine or stock

• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 2 tablespoons crème fraîche

• 1 lemon, zested and cut in half, to serve

• Handful of grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• 2 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Method

1. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the breadcrumbs and fry for 3-5 minutes, stirring, until crisp and golden. Remove from heat and set aside.
2. Bring a large pot of water to a rapid boil and season generously with salt. If using dried pasta, cook according to instructions until al dente. If using fresh pasta, cook it when the sauce is nearly done as it only takes a few minutes.
3. Meanwhile, wipe the mushrooms with a paper towel to remove any dirt – never wash them. Rip any large mushrooms in half and leave the smaller ones whole.
4. Place the frying pan back over medium heat and add the remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Throw in the mushrooms and thyme, stirring, and cook for 5-8 minutes until the mushrooms are golden and soft. (Don’t overcrowd the mushrooms; rather cook in two batches if necessary.)
5. Add the butter and let it melt, then toss in the garlic. Cook for another 30 seconds before pouring in the wine or stock (chicken or vegetable). Let it bubble away for a minute, or until the liquid has reduced by half. Season generously with salt and pepper. Turn off the heat and stir in the crème fraîche, lemon zest and a good squeeze of juice. Taste and adjust if needed.
6. Drain the pasta, reserving up to ½ cup of cooking water, and return it to the pot. Add a splash of the reserved water, a handful of cheese, and the mushroom sauce. Toss everything together forcefully.
7. Serve into bowls with a shower of crunchy breadcrumbs and a scattering of parsley. Serves 2