Try this sauce trick that I learnt from Melbourne chef Victor Liong

This delicious Chinese-style dish makes it to our table at least once a fortnight, thanks to a trick shared by Melbourne chef Victor Liong.

Delish: Alice Zaslavsky’s steamed fish dish. Picture: Guy Bailey

A version of this dish makes it to our table at least once a fortnight, particularly if there’s an especially fetching looking fillet at the fishmonger’s. Leeks are shapeshifters – give them fat and they’ll frizzle; keep the moisture in and they’ll become silky and slippery. The soy-spiked burnt butter is the kind of easy sauce you’ll find yourself pouring over anything from silken tofu to scallops, a trick I learnt from Melbourne chef Victor Liong.

Steamed fish with soy butter & leeks

800g-1kg skinless firm white fish fillet (see tips)

2-3 leeks, dark green tops trimmed and reserved

2 tablespoons neutral oil (I like grapeseed)

Pinch each of sugar and salt

1 thumb’s worth of ginger, grated or finely chopped

3 tablespoons light soy sauce

Pinch white pepper

75g salted butter

1-2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

Steamed jasmine rice to serve

If the fish is in one whole section, use a knife to make slashes part way through the thicker bits to ensure even cooking. Slice the leeks into 3cm batons and then julienne into thin matchsticks (see tips), dropping them into a bowl of cold water (or salad spinner, if you have one) as you go. Drain the leeks and pop them into a pan with the oil, 2 tablespoons of water, sugar, salt and ginger, then cover with a lid and simmer over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally until soft and translucent (about 8-10 minutes). While the leeks cook, place a steamer basket over simmering water or preheat your steaming device. Pop green leek tops in the centre of a plate or piece of baking paper; arrange the fish so that the thinner bits sit over the leek and the fleshier bits get more direct heat. Stir together 1 tablespoon of soy sauce and a pinch of white pepper and pour over the fish. Steam for 10-12 minutes, until the flesh turns opaque and starts to flake a little. Remove, cover loosely and let the residual heat finish it off.

Remove cooked (julienned) leeks from their pan and wipe it out with kitchen towel. Melt the butter in the pan on medium-high heat until foaming. Wait for the butter to bubble, begin to turn light brown and smell like cookies. Turn off the heat and stir through the garlic and remaining soy sauce (careful, it might spit). Transfer fish to a platter and pour over the soy butter, then drape leeks over the top. Serve with steamed jasmine rice. Serves 4

Top tips

I like to use hapuka, wild barramundi or trevalla (cod), but any firm-fleshed, skinless and boneless white fish will do.

You can cook the fish with skin on – just slide the flesh off the skin to serve

If you can’t source a whole large fillet, buy smaller fillets (200-250g per person) and nestle them in close when steaming

If the prospect of julienning leeks puts you off making this dish, feel free to slice the leeks into thin discs instead – you’ll get a similar mouthfeel, with ever-so-slightly less plate appeal