‘There is magic in the first bite, a smoky depth that rolls over your palate’
When you see meat cooked this slowly, this intentionally, it feels almost spiritual.
The smoke hangs thick in the Texas air. It is only 8am, but I am already sweltering. In a pit room just outside the state capital, Austin, a trio of offset smokers sit like smouldering dragons, their thick steel concealing the treasure residing within.. This isn’t just a restaurant, it’s a shrine to smoke and meat. Texans talk fondly about the “holy trinity” of barbecue – brisket, ribs and sausage – proudly served by any reputable pitmaster. What makes it special is the culture, craft and heart that goes into every bite.
There is a certain reverence to barbecue. When you see meat cooked this slowly, this intentionally, it feels almost spiritual. Texas barbecue has a way of rendering ribs into something beyond meat, where you don’t need a knife. Central Texas barbecue is where all Texas barbecue began, and it is characterised by a simple rub of salt and pepper, often referred to as “dalmatian rub”, which allows the pure flavour of the meat and the smoke to shine.
Pitmasters take pride in their craft and pass down their knowledge to those willing to learn. Working alongside Clay at Snow’s BBQ in Lexington feels like working in tune with fire’s own will, finding that split-second moment when the meat pulls from the bone just right, tender yet still with a little chew. I watch in awe as the smoke weaves gracefully around the meat, creating a caramelised crust that’s as much a part of the experience as the melt of fat beneath it. There is magic in the first bite: the sweet crunch of the mahogany crust with a rich, smoky depth that rolls over your palate.
Most Texas barbecue joints are family-owned and deeply rooted in their community as well as tradition, with recipes passed down through generations. Texans are often keen to recreate the flavours of their childhood with potato salads, corn pudding, smoky beans, slaw and nostalgic desserts like banana pudding and peach or cherry cobbler.
Here, I’m cooking pork ribs – which are unapologetically bold and messy, and best eaten with your fingers. For the full Texan experience, follow this recipe with my peach cobbler.
BBQ pork ribs
Ingredients
- 4 baby back pork ribs
- 70g kosher salt
- 30g cracked black pepper
- Mop sauce
- 2 onions, sliced
- 1 litre water
- 10g mustard powder
- 100g butter or pork fat
- 100ml Worcestershire sauce
- 100ml white wine vinegar or apple vinegar
To serve
- 1 jar cucumber pickles
- 2 jalapenos, sliced
- 1 sweet salad onion, sliced
Method
- Preheat your smoker or Webber to 110C. Mix the salt and cracked black pepper in a bowl or shaker and season the ribs liberally on both sides, coating them evenly. It will seem like a lot of seasoning, but it mellows over the cooking time. Allow the ribs to sit for about 15 minutes to absorb the rub. Place the ribs on the smoker, bone side down, and cook for 3 hours.
- In a pot, combine the water and sliced onions and bring to the boil. Simmer for 40 to 45 minutes until the onions have softened and the liquid has reduced by half. Whisk in the mustard, followed by the butter or pork fat. Remove from the heat, adding the Worcestershire sauce and the vinegar. Keep to one side as your mop sauce.
- After 3 hours, the ribs should have nice colour. Remove, and double wrap each rack in aluminium foil (add a little mop sauce inside for extra moisture if desired). Place them back on the smoker and cook for another 2 hours, approximately, checking for tenderness after 1 hour and every 15 minutes after. Carefully unwrap the ribs, brush with the mop sauce, and place them back on the smoker for the final hour. Continue to mop them every 20 minutes to keep the ribs juicy and add layers of flavour.
- To determine if they’re done, carefully lift them in the middle of each rib (which should bend easily) and the crust should begin to crack slightly, signalling that they are ready. Remove the ribs from the smoker, mop again, and let them rest for 8 to 10 minutes before slicing. Serve with some of the onion mop sauce and your favourite barbecue sauce, together with some pickles, fresh sliced onion, and jalapenos.
- Alternatively (though the result is certainly not the same), preheat your oven to 150C, season the ribs and wrap in foil. Bake for approximately 2 hours until tender. Remove the ribs from the foil, brush with the mop sauce and bake for a further 30 minutes, reapplying the mop sauce halfway through. Remove from the oven, brush again with the mop sauce and finish the ribs on a grill or barbecue for 15 minutes, continually brushing them every 5 minutes until the ribs are lightly charred and caramelised.
Serves 4