The secret to Yalumba’s longevity in the wine business

The secret to Yalumba’s longevity in the wine business across six generations.

Jess Hill Smith of Yalumba Wines in the new converted wine tank tasting spaces. Picture: Tom Huntley

Yalumba is the most senior member of the Australian First Families of Wine, one of a very small group of family-owned wineries founded in the first half of the 19th century that have continued in business to this day, across six generations. Samuel Smith migrated from England to South Australia, aged 35, with his wife Mary and their five children, leaving a successful business as a brewer. He found his way to Angaston, and employment by day with George Fife Angas, creating gardens and orchards. At night he began planting a small vineyard on a 12ha block.

When he died in 1889, Samuel Smith & Son was a thriving business, with markets in Australia and England. The Hill-Smith family tree is far flung, but the family has produced a series of great individuals – characters, perhaps – that have made visionary decisions leading to its multi-faceted activities of today. The key men in the family have more often than not married women with great charisma, too.

The core of the business is, of course, grape growing and winemaking. Yalumba’s vineyards have been planted in the Eden Valley, Barossa Valley, Riverland, Wrattonbully, Coonawarra and Tasmania, supplemented by grapes bought from contract growers. It has more than 150 wines, with a price range of $13 to $365, spanning table, sparkling and fortified styles.

It has a major in-house cooperage, French oak dominant. The vine nursery is the largest winery-owned commercial vine propagation business in Australasia. Its trifecta of Negociants Australia, Negociants New Zealand and Negociants International operates in the global import/export wine business.

Yalumba has long been working towards managing its activities sustainably, too. In 2016 it installed what was then the largest solar power system at an Australian winery, which today provides 23 per cent of the power required for its winery operations. It is actively pursuing a carbon neutrality target by 2050.

2018 Yalumba The Caley Coonawarra Barossa Cabernet Shiraz

80% estate-grown cabernet, 15% Eden Valley/5% Barossa Valley shiraz; spent 20 months in French oak (38% new). A deep pool of plush blackcurrant/ cassis fruit. An exercise in elegance. 14% alc, cork

97 points, drink to 2043, $365

2018 Yalumba The Octavius Old Vine Barossa Shiraz

69/31% Eden Valley and Barossa Valley; hand-picked vines, with an average age of 111 years. Matured for 21 months in 100% French (25% new) oak. The scented cherry flavours and fruits establish a delicious fresh fruit stream, the tannins fine and supple. 14.5% alc, cork

96 points, drink to 2038, $150

2018 Yalumba The Signature Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz

54% cabernet sauvignon and 46% shiraz, matured for 21 months in French, Hungarian and American oak (33% new). Like its siblings, it has very good colour; overall it is robust, medium- to full-bodied and dark-fruited; the oak and the tannins balanced. One for the cellar. 14.5% alc, cork

95 points, drink to 2043, $65

See the secret cellar deal on super-premium shiraz and cabernet for The Australian Wine Club here.