The making of The Islander Estate wines

How a scion of a Bordeaux wine dynasty teamed up with the boss of an Aussie travel business to make wines on Kangaroo Island.

Good stuff: the reviewed wines

How, when and why would a proud fifth-generation member of one of Bordeaux’s family wine dynasties, its roots dating back to the 17th century, and a Colorado-raised IBM executive who had created a wholesale travel business, Aussie Adventures, come together (with their wives) on Kangaroo Island? Each fell in love with the rolling hills and wild coastlines of the 155km x 50km island, which hit the headlines in January 2020 as bushfires ravaged 50 per cent of the landscape.

Jacques Lurton was a flying winemaker travelling between vineyards in eight countries when he and his wife made landfall in 1997. The decision to make this his home away from home didn’t take long, and they bought a 280ha farm and planted an 11ha vineyard, followed by a made to measure winery. Yale and Maren Norris arrived with their two children in 2011 and a year later invested in the business, progressively taking on the roles of general manager, vineyard manager, winemaker and sales director. Lurton continues as co-owner and chief winemaker.

“After losing our vineyard and infrastructure we were unsure if our land or the business would recover,” Yale says of the devastating fires. “We spent the better part of 2020 replacing fences, cleaning up debris, pulling out vineyard blocks damaged beyond repair, and cutting remaining vines to ground level to stimulate new shoot growth.” The winter rainfall of 2020 was fantastic, with nearly 70 per cent of the vineyard regrowing: “We spent all spring putting up new trellis and cordon wires, retraining vines, and installing a new irrigation system.” The ensuing (’21) vintage centred on fruit from other Kangaroo Island vineyards not affected by the fires, ’22 largely contract grown, but made at the restored estate winery. “So many positives can come from tragedy,” muses Yale, “if you look forward and not back.”

2018 The Islander Estate Vineyards Boundary Track Kangaroo Island Shiraz

Table-sorted (berry by berry) by hand. Wild fermented in 1000l ceramic eggs; on skins 8 weeks; matured in French demis (25% new) for 24 months. Still crimson hued; beautifully made, with silky tannins and fruit-freshness, the oak playing a nigh-on unseen hand. One glass insists on two. 13.5% alc, screwcap 96 points, drink to 2048, $75

2016 The Islander Estate Vineyards The Independence Kangaroo Island Malbec

Hand-picked, table-sorted, barrel fermented in seasoned 600l demis, 5 weeks on skins, 24 months in new 600l demis. An alluring, expressive bouquet with licorice, polished leather, eastern spices, dried plum and earth joined by cedary oak tannins on the long, perfectly balanced finish. 14.5% alc, Diam 96 points, drink to 2036, $150

2021 The Islander Estate Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc

Managed organically. Pale quartz-green. Classic sauvignon blanc flavours range from snowpea to wild herbs to gooseberry. No compromises needed nor used. Revels in the exceptional vintage, flawless mouthfeel and balance. 13% alc, screwcap 94 points, drink to 2023, $30