The Boathouse Hotel, Patonga

Even landlubbers will enjoy this place.

We locals call it Patagonia, this place on the NSW central coast at the end of a twisting road that opens to a flat waterfront settlement of holiday shacks, camping sites and contemporary new-builds. It’s our slightly envious name for tiny Patonga, tightly defined by the bushy hills of Brisbane Water National Park and its sandy shore, but nowhere near as rugged and otherworldly as the bottom tip of South America. And neither is it inhospitable, especially since a smart restaurant, cafe and bar popped up a year ago.

The Boathouse Hotel.

Shaded by a cluster of Norfolk pines facing the curve of Brisk Bay, The Boathouse Hotel Patonga is a redevelopment of the old village pub. News of its $8 million reincarnation in 2017 by the Boathouse Group was criticised by many residents, with fears of “overcrowding, traffic congestion, lack of parking and noise”. I live nearby on another sleepy peninsula and understand such resistance. I can also attest to parking dilemmas on weekends at Patonga; one Sunday last summer, we just gave up and took our brunch business elsewhere. There are no meal reservations, either, unless you’re a group of 10 or more.

The Boathouse Hotel.

But there are no congestion issues on a recent Thursday when my chap and I book into one of a trio of recently opened apartments beside and behind the hotel proper. We have been upgraded to the three-bedroom option, which has oceans of space and a smart beachcomber kit-out. Recurring motifs of sailboats, anchors and lobsters on textiles are subtle; framed works of art painted on planks show images of seagulls, their beaks wide and gossipy, plus fish and crabs. Plantation shutters, pale timber floors, two bright bathrooms and a long open kitchen are all high-spec. It is easy to imagine living here, with water views, Netflix on demand and a roomy balcony for serious lazing.

Meantime, across in the breezy indoor-outdoor dining spaces, the restaurant features plantation-style décor, enlivened with masses of fresh flowers, glossy succulents and mighty clam shells piled with lemons. The decor is almost a template for the Boathouse Group stable, with its home base at Palm Beach, where Barrenjoey House and The Boathouse restaurant are popular fixtures.

The Boathouse Hotel.

The child-friendly courtyard is almost like a glorified beer garden. Design details include louvred windows and pelican motifs, while the real birds circle fishing boats beside the jetty. You order at a servery and take your number to white-painted picnic benches or high tables. There are stools beside an outdoor counter by the footpath, surely reminiscent of a pub’s long bar. Then come the updated flourishes. You can have a sausage sandwich for breakfast but expect it gussied-up with basil, chilli and manchego. Menu items range from virtuous fare such as bowls of kale and its leafy likes to beer-battered flathead and chips. The respectable Tatachilla house wine from McLaren Vale is just $7 a glass, or go wild with a Patonga margarita from the substantial $19-a-pop cocktail list. An old-fashioned cuppa or a masala chai is $5 and ditto the excellent coffees, also available to take away from the kiosk.

The Boathouse Hotel.

Thursday means locals’ night and here comes builder Brad from down the road selling $1 tickets for the meat tray raffle, while quizmaster Gary is handing out sheets for the weekly trivia showdown. My chap and I form a team of two and win by a tight margin. Instead of a kilo of chops, as we had laughingly expected, we receive a $100 voucher. We could use this to pay for the excellent dinner we’ve just hoed into or save it for another day. With no deliberation, we opt to return.

The Boathouse Hotel.

• Perfect for: Two and three-bedroom apartments are ideal for families; the one-bedroom option works well for couples.

• Must do: Get across to Palm Beach aboard a quaint wooden ferry that could have puttered out of a child’s storybook; about 30 minutes one way. Kayaking and bird-watching are popular along Patonga Creek; head 30 minutes north to Killcare Beach for surf.

• Dining: The hotel is the hub of Patonga but district options with views include Pearls on the Beach at Pearl Beach, The Box on the Water at Ettalong, Fishermen’s Wharf at Woy Woy and The Lucky Bee at Hardys Bay.

• Getting there: About 90 minutes’ drive north from Sydney; 20 minutes by taxi from Woy Woy Station.

• Bottom line: Average $350 (one bedroom), $550 (two), $750 (three).

THE BOATHOUSE HOTEL, PATONGA, NSW

theboathousehotelpatonga.com.au