Serve this beef stew with polenta and greens with jammy lemons for a hearty meal

Deep and glossy, rich with garlic and wine, ­peposo – the name means ­ “peppery” in Italian – is a bold, pared-back dish that lingers. The hum of heat stays long after the bowl is empty.

Peposo, polenta, greens. Recipes by Elizabeth Hewson Photography by Nikki To / TWAM

The first time I tasted peposo, it stopped me in my tracks. So dark it was almost black, this Tuscan stew had a creeping heat from the pepper that felt like warmth returning to cold hands. Deep and glossy, rich with garlic and wine, ­peposo – the name means ­ “peppery” in Italian – is a bold, pared-back dish that lingers. The hum of heat stays long after the bowl is empty.

This is a dish rooted firmly in place. It comes from Impruneta, a small town outside Florence known for its terracotta kilns – the same ones that fired the tiles for the Duomo, the city’s grand cathedral. The story goes that kiln workers would tuck terracotta pots of beef, wine, garlic, olive oil, salt, and a heavy hand of pepper near the mouths of the kilns to slowly braise as they worked. No herbs, no stock – just six ingredients, transformed by fire and time. The garlic melts away, the beef softens, and what’s left is a fiercely ­peppered, deeply savoury stew. Some say even Filippo Brunelleschi, who designed the iconic dome, would stop in for a bowl while inspecting the tiles. I like to think that’s true.

You’ll see versions with soffritto or extra vegetables, and others that lean heavily on tomato. While there’s nothing wrong with that, it just becomes a different kind of stew. I do stay (mostly) true to the original, but I can’t help take a small liberty by adding four anchovies and a spoon of tomato paste. I prefer it that way, but if you’d rather keep it traditional, leave them out. The one thing not to skip is freshly cracked black pepper. Use lots: it’s the backbone of the dish, and what gives it its name.

I serve this stew on a creamy, cheesy bed of polenta – the soft base is perfect for catching the sauce and softening the kick of the pepper. And for balance, I love it with my grilled garlic and jammy lemon greens. Cooking down lemon until soft and sticky has become a new obsession. It mellows the sourness and brings something close to ­preserved lemon, but without the salt and time. Tossed with Italian greens and garlic, it’s the brightness the stew needs on the side.

This beef stew has a peppery kick.





Polenta is a perfect winter warmer.

Peposo with creamy polenta

As with most stews, an overnight rest helps develop flavour. If you have the time, cook it the day before and reheat to serve. I like to lean into Italian red wine here, but a shiraz will do the job fine. 


Ingredients

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1.2kg stewing beef, such as gravy, shin, brisket, chuck or blade, cut into
  4cm chunks
• 6 garlic cloves
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 4 anchovy fillets
• 1 teaspoon sea salt
• 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
• 750ml Italian red wine such as Chianti or Sangiovese

• 200g instant polenta

• 500ml milk
• 900ml water
• 1 chicken stock cube

• 1 tablespoon butter
• 60g (½ cup) grated Parmigiano Reggiano, plus extra to serve

Method

1. Preheat the oven to 170C (150C fan-forced). Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy, lidded casserole pot over a medium heat. Brown the beef in batches on all sides for a few minutes, taking your time and making sure to get a nice caramelisation. Do this in two or three batches to ensure you don’t overcrowd the pan. Return all the beef to the pan and throw in the garlic, anchovy, tomato paste, salt, pepper and red wine. Mix and bring to a boil, then turn off heat.
2. Put the lid on (or cover with baking paper and tightly wrap in foil) and place in the oven. Cook for 2 hours, then uncover and continue to cook in the oven for another hour, until the meat is very tender and the sauce has reduced.
3. Prepare the polenta according to the packet instructions (liquid ratios can vary between brands). While most call for water, I prefer a mix of milk and stock. Bring 500ml milk and 900ml water to a simmer with a stock cube, then slowly pour in the polenta, whisking as you go. Keep whisking for 3-5 minutes, until thick and oozy.
4. Stir through the butter and Parmigiano Reggiano. Season to taste. Ladle polenta into bowls; top with the beef and sauce. Grate over extra Parmigiano Reggiano. Serves 4

Blanched greens.

The beauty of vegetables.

Blanched greens, jammy lemon, garlic & chilli

We are using both the lemon skin and flesh. The easiest way to cut the lemon is lengthways, then again in half to get your quarter.

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra to drizzle

• ¼ lemon, cut lengthways
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• ½-1 red bird’s eye chilli, deseeded and finely chopped
• 1 bunch cavolo nero, chard or kale
• Salt, to taste

Method

1. Take the greens and strip the leaves away from the woodier, thicker stems. Put a large pot of water on the boil and season well. Dunk leaves and stems into the boiling water for 30 seconds, then drain and run under cold water.
2. Give them a gentle squeeze and set aside. Slice your lemon quarter.
3. In a frying pan, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil and add the lemon quarter; cook, moving it around the pan, for 2 to 3 minutes, until soft and jammy.
4. Add the remaining olive oil, followed by the garlic and chilli, and toss around in the pan for 20 seconds. Add the blanched greens.
5. Toss greens in the lemony, garlic chilli oil, and cook for 2-3 minutes or until wilted to your liking. Season well.
6. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil.
Serves 4