Rich and luxurious, Lennox Hastie’s fish pie is comfort eating at its best
The puff pastry crust acts as a luxurious blanket, crowning the creamy filling beneath; this pie is a meal in itself.
The appeal of the phrase “Catch of the Day” lies in its freshness and vitality. The phrase also highlights the wild unpredictability of fishing – the availability of certain species or sizes of fish can vary daily, based on factors such as fishing locations, seasonal migrations and weather conditions. I am always amazed at how on a perfect day on land it can be rough at sea, and I have a massive respect for those who brave the weather to bring us various culinary treasures from the deep.
Sometimes fish can be in short supply, so what better way to combine various ingredients from the sea – and make them go a little further – than in a traditional fish pie? A quintessential comfort food, fish pie was originally created to utilise leftover fish, transforming a combination of humble ingredients into a luxurious treat.
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One of the defining characteristics of fish pie is its versatility – you can adapt the recipe according to what is available on the day, be it flathead, ling, snapper, dory, prawns, scallops or mussels. Bound in a creamy white sauce enriched with a hint of fragrant herbs, and topped with a potato or pastry lid, the enduring popularity of fish pie is that the dish embodies comfort and indulgence.
For me, a firm-fleshed meaty white fish such as blue-eye is ideally complemented by the robust flavour of hot smoked trout; the two fish combine to create a rich depth of flavour. But it is the anchovy, that small but mighty ingredient, that is the secret weapon here: its umami-rich profile adds a subtle yet impactful layer of complexity to the pie, elevating it to new heights. The anchovy’s briny notes marry with the natural sweetness of the blue-eye and the smokiness of the trout, while the capers, dill and lemon zest take it to the next level.
The puff pastry crust, golden and flaky, acts as a luxurious blanket, crowning the creamy filling beneath. The pie is a meal in itself; it requires little accompaniment save for a crisp salad or some greens. Try this recipe.
RECIPE: Fisherman’s pie
Ingredients
- 350ml fish stock
- 100ml white wine
- 3-4 parsley stalks
- 3-4 dill stalks
- 1 bay leaf
- 400g skinless firm white flesh fish (such as blue-eye trevalla or bass groper)
- 250g hot smoked ocean trout, skin and bones removed, flaked
- 50g butter
- 50g plain flour
- 20g butter
- 1 leek, finely chopped
- 1 stick celery, finely chopped
- ½ bulb fennel, finely chopped
- 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
- 1 medium zucchini (about 150g), diced
- 80ml double cream
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
- 1 tablespoon small capers
- Zest of 1 lemon
- 1 teaspoon peppercorns, preferably pink peppercorns, ground finely
- 2 anchovies, finely chopped
- ½ bunch Italian parsley, finely chopped
- ¼ bunch dill, finely chopped
- ½ bunch tarragon, finely chopped
- ½ bunch chives, finely chopped
- Sea salt
- 1 sheet puff pastry
- 1 egg, beaten
Method
- Preheat oven to 200C. Put the fish stock, wine, parsley stalks, dill stalks and bay leaf into a medium pan and bring to a simmer. Add the fish and poach for 5-6 minutes, until tender, before lifting out the fish with a slotted spoon. Remove the skins (if any) and break into large chunks. Strain the stock into a clean container.
- Melt 50g butter in a medium pan over a lowish heat, and then stir in the flour. Cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes until it turns lightly golden. Gradually stir in the stock, mixing thoroughly to incorporate each time. Bring to the boil, then simmer gently for about 30 minutes. Melt the 20g of butter in a small saucepan over medium heat then add the leek, celery, fennel, garlic and a pinch of salt. Cook for 8-10 minutes until soft with no texture but not browned. Add the diced zucchini and remove to cool. Take the sauce off the heat; stir in the double cream, mustard, capers, lemon zest, pink peppercorns and anchovies. Gently fold the cooked fish, sweated vegetables and chopped herbs into the sauce, seasoning with salt to taste. Allow mixture to cool then transfer it to your pie dish. (It’s always better having a cooled mixture for a pie, to give the pastry top the best chance to rise and get crisp.)Cut your puff pastry to fit your pie dish (I used an oval pie dish approximately 18cm-28cm), with at least 1cm overhanging. Place it over the top of your dish and, using a fork, press down the edges to seal. Make a small incision in the pastry to allow steam to escape. If you are feeling creative, cut out a fish shape using leftover pastry and stick on to the top of your pie. Brush the top of your pie with beaten egg, then bake in the oven for 25-30 minutes or until the pastry is golden and puffed. Serves 3-4