Phillip Island: where nature’s on your doorstep
They don’t do things by halves on Phillip Island. Watching the nightly parade of Little Penguins is just the start of the fun.
The humans are first to arrive. In their hundreds they sweep through the spectacular star-shaped visitor centre, an award-winning architectural wonder you might more readily associate with the fine arts than a penguin parade. But that comparison would only serve to underestimate the pulling power of penguins. This $58m zinc-clad building with soaring timber and concrete geometric features in the cavernous entrance hall provides a seamless entry to the boardwalks and viewing platforms at one of Australia’s most popular wildlife experiences.
In normal times up to 4000 people a night made the journey here to watch the Little Penguins return to their burrows after a day’s foraging in Bass Strait. When Victoria entered its long lockdown last year, the parade went virtual and was a surprising hit: more than 770,000 people tuned into a livestream on the first night alone. As ranger Skye tells me this during a tour in April, a lady in the crowd overhears and sidles up. “We watched it every night; it helped, somehow…’’ she says with feeling as we turn to watch the last stragglers make their slow march home. Sure they’re cute, but these birds with their flappy “arms” and ungainly upright waddle clearly tap some deeper sentiment in humans.
On this night, a total of 1955 penguins have come ashore and soon their trills, growls and squawks fill the night air. The crowd is organised into seating areas in the dunes, or separate viewing platforms above ground or underground for an eye-level view. It’s an informative and intimate experience and all will leave here with a new appreciation for these flightless birds.
I make the short drive back to my own nest for the night, one of three newly built cabins at Five Acres, a “working micro-farm” in Ventnor. The sweet scent of freshly crafted Tasmanian oak greets me as I open the door to my softly lit room and assess the options: the fully plumped sofa, the linen-dressed king bed or the outdoor tub that could soak a whole family? A laden grazing platter in the kitchen bears closer examination but all the while I am peering out into the darkness. What’s out there?
At first light, the fog rolling in from the ocean lifts to reveal the red mound of a newly planted garden. Then another red lump emerges from the gloom but this one is moving. Two eyes, two great horns, a shaggy face – a Scottish highland cow has planted itself within the frame of my windows. As I brew my tea, woman and beast assess each other. It’s a strangely meditative start to the day.
By now I can see the waters of Western Port Bay glinting in the distance. It’s a lovely outlook that can be enjoyed from the bed or fireside in the lounge through the full-height windows. Katie and Rom Lamaro, who moved here in 2018 with their three children, have built these spacious cabins with great care and a sophisticated eye. It’s an ideal base for further exploration.
Think Phillip Island and most people think penguins and Grand Prix. After two days here I think nature – scenic walking trails, boardwalks and beaches – and close-up encounters with animals. At the Koala Conservation Centre the stars of the show barely lift an eyelid to acknowledge the humans wandering along the elevated walkways. Then, at dusk, I have a sneak peek at another tour which is in a trial stage: the Bandicoot Spotlight Discovery Experience on historic Churchill Island. As night falls, and with a guide and red-light torch, we wander the paths, spotting eastern barred bandicoots digging and flitting and hear how they were thought to be extinct from the mainland until a chance discovery of a small group living in a rubbish tip in western Victoria. They were released on fox-free Churchill Island in 2015 and have thrived; now, if you look closely, you’ll see them around the penguin parade area as well.
I conclude my island visit with breakfast at The Cape Kitchen, a stunning spot at Newhaven with views over the Southern Ocean. Brand manager Tom Lade takes me on a tour of a nearby construction site that will, come next year, house a hot springs spa centre featuring 15 outdoor pools with scope for up to 30 more. “The restaurant will go there,’’ he says, pointing to a spot in the building site, “and the treatment rooms with our own skincare range here.” Tom has worked at luxury properties around Australia and he lights up as he talks me through the impressive plans. I’ve quickly learnt they don’t do things by halves on Phillip Island.
Perfect for: Nature lovers.
Must do: Visit the Penguin Parade, Koala Conservation Centre and Churchill Island (for tickets, check penguins.org.au). Keep an eye out for the bandicoot spotlight tours (limited dates will be released over the coming months).
Dining: The Cape Kitchen at Newhaven for brunch; the Phillip Island Winery at Ventnor is a beautiful spot with great food. At Rhyll, explore the bushfoods garden and interesting menu at Wild Food Farm and Café.
Getting there: Phillip Island is about two hours’ drive south of Melbourne.
Bottom line: Luxe cabins at Five Acres from $490 per night for two (adults only); fiveacres.com.au
visitvictoria.com/regions/phillip-island
A pasta dish that’s a recipe for healthy eating
This is fuss-free, healthy cooking at its finest.
How your food choices can make you healthy and happy
It’s still only relatively recently that we’ve been able to connect the dots between the science of food, the art of cooking and their interactions with our health.