Paxton Wines pack a punch

David Paxton’s biodynamic wines provide wonderful flavour at lower alcohol levels.

I’ve known David Paxton for 30 years, and have never seen him take a backward step or shirk a challenge. He was involved as a consultant under the aegis of Brian Croser in the development of vineyards in the Adelaide Hills in the early 1980s. They were on slopes so steep that no one had previously considered them plantable; one particular slope was nicknamed The Widow Maker.

He brought his knowledge with him to the Upper Yarra, and worked for several developments including the Gladysdale Vineyard for a syndicate that found a ready buyer in Hardys and its Bastard Hill brand. He was also the consultant on two vineyards for Coldstream Hills in the mid-1990s; they are now the pride and joy of Coldstream, the best known being Deer Farm.

Back home in the gentle hills of McLaren Vale, he’d founded Paxton Vineyards in 1979, providing consulting and management services. He and his family now own a little over 80ha spread across seven vineyards, and manage another 120ha of vines in McLaren Vale and the Barossa Valley. In 1998 Paxton Wines made its first wines, released in 2000, with son Ben in charge of running the business.

In 2004 David Paxton surprised me by announcing out of the blue his intention to adopt biodynamics for all the vineyards owned by the family. Not for Paxton airy words; the vineyards are now certified biodynamic, and winemaker Richard Freebairn (with an impressive CV) is producing wines that I really love. The question, then, is how much of the quality comes from the soil and how much from the hand of men: Paxton making the big calls in the vineyard, and Freebairn in the winery. It’s a big question, but I’m sure biologically active soils provide flavour at lower alcohol levels – 14% on average for Paxton, compared to 15% across the region.

2015 Paxton MV Organic McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon

Parcels from various Paxton vineyards were separately vinified, matured in French puncheons for 14 months then blended. A tightly focused palate has abundant blackcurrant and savoury tannins, all in perfect balance. A distinguished cabernet.

14% alc, screwcap 94 points, drink to 2035, $20

2015 Paxton AAA McLaren Vale Shiraz Grenache

A 65/35% blend, matured in French barriques. Complex, rich and layered, black and red fruits provide the mosaic of flavours. The tannin and oak management can’t be faulted. A lovely wine at a bargain basement price.

14% alc, screwcap 96 points, drink to 2030, $25

2015 Paxton Quandong Farm Single Vineyard McLaren Vale Shiraz

Hand-picked, 20% whole bunches, matured in French barriques. A velvety wine that is delicious now thanks to its red berries and plum fruit that open confidently on the palate and push through to the finish and aftertaste.

14% alc, screwcap 95 points, drink to 2030, $30