Paris wine bars: O Chateau, Frenchie, Les 110 de Taillevent and Legrand
It would be sacrilege not to indulge fully in the sublime atmosphere and offerings of Paris’s best wine bars.
Anyone who loves great wine must make a pilgrimage to France and of course Paris. Here are four wine destinations where you will be in safe hands — and where speaking English won’t cause any raised eyebrows. Note I’ve eschewed places keen on natural wines: as someone raised on the classics, I struggle with a lot of the naturals, which I reckon fall into the interesting category, as in the Chinese curse of “interesting times”. Such is the price of ageing (me, that is, not the wines).
O Chateau (above). Located in the 1st arrondissement, O Chateau offers an appropriately wine-friendly menu roaming from gravlax and jambon to Uruguay Black Angus with lots of tasty small plates between. The knowledgeable and personable North American team stays credible after five minutes of intense discussion about the nuances of Chassagne Montrachet. I had 30ml each of a grand cru Boxler Alsace riesling (stunning), Christian Moreau Chablis and Henri Germain Meursault. There was more to follow … These guys know their stuff. Ne manquez pas!http://o-chateau.com
Frenchie Wine Bar. Gregory (or “Frenchie”, as Jamie Oliver dubbed him) Marchand entered the Paris food scene in April 2009 to immediate critical and public acclaim. Packed since day one, the original Frenchie restaurant has expanded to include a caviste (cellarmaster), a simple cafe/shop and the wine bar. On offer is a small and well-chosen range of wines by the glass, many served from magnum, and a la table (nice work). The buzz is energetic, the food delicious and the value good. Ask for the restaurant wine list, which has more listings and bargains. I enjoyed a 2015 Marcel Lapierre Morgon for €45 ($64). www.frenchie-restaurant.com/en
Les 110 de Taillevent. The wine bar of the venerable Michelin-starred restaurant of the same name, the “110” refers to the number of wines offered by the glass here. I visited the day of the Donald’s election, and there were many dark suits and serious faces, still managing to heartily enjoy themselves. No doubt their spirits were uplifted by the quality and value of the €44 lunch menu, which included superb ceviche of sea bream, fricassee of rabbit, and cheese or dessert. All dishes amply exhibited the values and craftsmanship of the big boy restaurant. Wines are available in 70ml or 140ml pours; for lunch, five x 70ml is perfect. Think Raveneau Montee, Niellon Chassagne Chaumees and Vernay Cote Rotie. Classic. Go for the afternoon. www.les-110-taillevent-paris.com/
Legrand Filles et Fils. Established in 1880 within the stunning Galleries Vivienne, this is Le grand seigneur of the Paris wine shops that also serve food (a cave a manger, as distinct from a wine bar). The small, select menu offers impeccable quality: cheeses, charcuteries, foie gras (mi-cuit), caviar and so on. Pro tip: don’t order immediately from the by-the-glass list. Browse the shop for a bottle because the droit du bouchon (corkage charge) is zero for consumption “sur place”. There is usually a fair smattering of the French wine trade present: no wonder, as drinking great wines here by the bottle is really a good deal: try €15 for a bottle of tier-one producer cru Beaujolais. In addition to current releases, there are also aged wines offered by the glass that will quickly elevate your account. Ideal for grazing and profound philosophical conversations and an absolute must visit. Note that it closes early evening. www.caves-legrand.com/en/
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