Paperbark Camp, Jervis Bay, NSW: commune with nature in style and comfort

The sounds of this glamping weekend? Popping champagne corks, birdsong in the morning, and the crackle of a log fire at night.

On your doorstep: a sea cave near Murrays Beach, Jervis Bay. Picture: Jordan Robins

The sounds of a glamping weekend are not all about luxury. Yes, there’s the welcome pop of a champagne cork as you open the complimentary bottle that greets you upon arrival at Paperbark Camp on the NSW South Coast, followed by a contented sigh as you pour yourself a glass and settle into one of the lounges on the front deck of your tented retreat. But there is also the birdsong that tops and tails your days, and the rush of wind through the surrounding stands of paperbarks as you lie in your comfortable king bed, immersed in the sounds of the great outdoors from inside your plushly furnished tent. There is the crackle of a freshly made fire outside the communal lounge on the first cold evening of the year. You might even hear a lone motor boat gliding along the nearby Currambene Creek.

Paperbark Camp

There are also some welcoming sounds of silence: the quietness of our borrowed car, Mitsubishi’s Eclipse Cross, a plug-in hybrid electric vehicle that changes between battery power and petrol motor almost imperceptibly on the two-and-a-half-hour drive south from Sydney. And there is the noticeable lack of jangling from room keys as you unzip the front flap to your tent and step into a space that has elements of a luxury hotel stay but is also entirely different.

Inside one of the tents. Picture: Rachael Tagg

Inside the solar-powered tent there’s a rug and comfortable armchair on the raised hardwood floor, luxury linen on the bed, plenty of blankets and pillows, a couple of bathrobes in the roomy hanging space, and a good store of herbal teas and coffee (a thermos of hot water is thoughtfully left on the top step of our deck just after 7am each day). There are even USB ports for charging your phone. The canvas walls, though hardly soundproof, are well screened against insects and double-sided window flaps block out much of the early morning light, a bonus for light sleepers.

But it’s what lies beyond that proves to be the biggest bonus. The 13 well-spaced tents come in three options, the top-of-the-range king deluxe safari tents featuring an indoor ensuite with sunken bath and an outdoor bush shower. Our entry-level deluxe safari tent has an open-air bathroom with a shower and a deep freestanding bath, accessed by a sliding door at the rear of the tent. Although beds are covered in thick doonas and blankets and hot water bottles are provided for all guests, tents are not heated and on a cold night it can take some nerve to be enticed into the outdoor shower.

The alfresco bath

But at the sunny end of a crisp autumn day, it’s perfect. After a delightful few hours exploring nearby Huskisson, with its stunning beaches, monthly markets and the famous Husky pub (now smartly renovated and a great place for lunch), it’s suddenly 4pm. It’s time for afternoon tea at Paperbark camp, where a luscious Persian love cake edged with rose petals and pistachios has been laid out for guests in the central dining area.

At the back of our Kookaburra tent, just beyond the local creek, it’s the sound of running water that’s suddenly enticing. With the air not yet too frigid, it seems like the perfect time to try the outdoor bath. To the gentle trill of kingfishers, interrupted only by the joy of a newly engaged couple in a nearby tent sharing their good news via speakerphone, a hot dip outside turns out to be the perfect way to end a most relaxing weekend.

• Perfect for: Couples.

• Must do: Discover the beautiful beaches of Jervis Bay. If it’s too cold for a swim or you don’t fancy a stroll on the impossibly white sand, there’s a stunning coastal walk between Vincentia and Huskisson, a short drive from the camp.

• Dining: Most meals are included. Breakfast might feature vanilla panna cotta with roasted peaches, freshly squeezed juices and pancakes; three-course dinners begin with warm sourdough and a small soup appetiser, served in The Gunyah, the restaurant, bar and communal lounge area, or on its elevated outside balcony.

• Getting there: Paperbark Camp is on Woollamia Road, Woollamia, 190km south of Sydney.

• The car: As electric car novices, we’re reassured when the Mitsubishi’s 2.4-litre fuel tank comes into play once the 13.8kW battery runs out after about 40km, just as we leave Sydney (the official estimated range is 55km). The cabin is spacious and comfortable, the boot roomy enough for a weekend away, and returning home after a round trip of almost 400km we’re heartened to see the petrol tank is still half full. Eclipse Cross PHEV from $46,990; mitsubishi-motors.com.au

• Bottom line: From $705 a night for two in a deluxe safari tent, including three-course dinner, breakfast, afternoon tea, one picnic lunch, use of canoes, standup paddleboards, kayaks and bikes. Minimum two-night stay Friday and Saturday nights. The property will be closed for maintenance Aug 11-17.

paperbarkcamp.com.au