‘On day day four, the clouds part and there’s the mountain... Let’s go’
From the summit of Mt Wellington to good restaurants and the old-world charm of Battery Point, a trip to Hobart has it all.
“Right there,” I say to the teenagers, waving my hand vaguely out to the city rim, “is a huge mountain. Imagine having a proper mountain, right there on your doorstep!” They peer into the distance for a few seconds, see nothing – not rock, not tree, not rise nor summit – just thick low cloud framing the urban expanse. And they look doubtful.
It’s day three of our summer trip to Hobart and I’m hoping our only view of Kunanyi/Mount Wellington won’t come courtesy of the photos outside the tourist shops. There are moments of hope. The clouds part over the city, bathing the coves and nooks around the Derwent River in warm sunshine, but the mountain remains stubbornly shrouded. We hop into our Tesla hire car and drive up Pinnacle Road, creeping higher and higher until the thick fog drops like a blockout curtain and we turn back just short of the boulder-strewn summit. And then, on day four, there she is. Let’s go. Up we drive, past mossy gullies and thick rainforest towards subalpine country, stopping at a wildflower-lined track that will take us under the magnificent “Organ Pipes”, towering dolerite columns formed during the Jurassic period. Look left to the sheer vertical pipes, their peaks, up to 120m high, ducking in and out of clouds, or right to the vista over Hobart and out to the Tasman Peninsula. It’s cool up here; temperatures at the summit are on average 10 degrees lower than the city, a 21km drive away, and it feels wild and exhilarating.
We take our weary bones back to our accommodation in the city’s “midtown” which is, in the architectural terms of its surrounding streetscape, as distinctive as that mountain. In a city noted for its symmetrical brick and sandstone colonial buildings this new curvy limewashed low rise occupying the corner of Elizabeth and Brisbane Streets catches the eye. Hobart has had a rush of smart new hotels but the recently opened The Rox is for those who want the space to sprawl and a kitchen to cook up produce from Sunday’s nearby Farm Gate market or collected from forays into the surrounding food bowl. Comprising 16 apartments, including private residences, self-contained accommodation and, on the ground floor, a soon-to-be-opened Lexus showroom, the building gets its name from 1800s-built Roxburgh House, to which it is connected via a forecourt.
Our two-bedroom penthouse apartment has the comforts of a fully fitted-out home – designer kitchen with the mod cons and a walk-in pantry, two king bedrooms, open plan living and a separate TV room, all crowned by a vast rooftop terrace. The flourishes of a good stylist are evident from the light fittings to the décor and furnishings showcasing Tasmanian designers. The whole package says: quality.
While most tourists will be drawn to the waterfront restaurants and bars, with their bustling outdoor tables and lovely views, we discover a playground of restaurants and bars in this part of town: for brunch, Room for a Pony (the Chinese fried chilli omelette… just order it); for a casual bite, Bar Wa Izakaya, or for an intimate experience, the small wine bar Sonny. (If you can’t bag a table, it offers exclusive room service to The Rox guests.)
We spend days wandering the city, exploring the galleries at Salamanca Place, the quaint streets of Battery Point, the winding paths of the Royal Botanic Gardens and the unmissable Mona. When we’re ready to venture further afield we take a short walk to a local business called Drive Car Hire, whose fleet includes five new Tesla Model 3 electric cars – a welcome addition given the shortage of hire cars (and soaring rental prices) in Tasmania. We’re given a helpful demo on how to operate the iPad-like screen controls, are shown how to unlock the car and open the doors (strangely vital pieces of information) and assured that the car can travel at least 500km on a single charge. We’re told to prepare for a different driving experience, which is an understatement: this thing can go. Then it’s off to the Coal River Valley wine region where we sample local pinot noir, drop in at the charming village of Richmond, stop for a memorable lunch at Coal River Farm and stock up on handcrafted cheese and chocolates.
There’s one final thing to do. Tasmania must have more distilleries than people (just count the spirit stalls at the weekend Salamanca markets) and I notice the famed Lark Distillery’s cellar door down by the dock. The sun is out as we pull up at an outside table, order a flight of local whiskies and toast a magical few days in the southern capital.
• Perfect for: Travellers who like their creature comforts.
• Must do: Don’t just admire Mount Wellington from afar, get up there. Catch a public bus or drive to the summit; there are walks to suit most abilities. Take Kelly’s steps from Salamanca Place to Battery Point.
• Dining: Within a quick walk of The Rox you’ll find most cuisines from Vietnamese to Italian, Japanese to fine Oz fare. Dier Makr, Fico, Templo and Aloft are recommended.
• Getting there: The Rox is on the corner of Brisbane and Elizabeth Sts, Hobart. Tesla car hire from $285 per day (two-day min; drivecarhire.com.au).
• Bottom line: Two-bedroom penthouse from $910 per night; one bedroom apartment from $360 per night (lower rates for winter).
theroxhobart.com
The perfect late summer salad
If your peaches are already super sweet, don’t even bother grilling them.
A Greek salad with the lot, and then some
The surprise here is the stone fruit, which pops with sour–sweetness to elevate the lot.